On the northwest coast of the Faroe Island of Streymoy lies the remote village of Saksun. According to many who have visited during their trip through the Faroe Islands, Saksun is one of the most beautiful villages in the archipelago. Over the last few decades, the number of inhabitants has dropped significantly. Today, only about eight people live in this fairytale-like village.
History of Saksun
The village of Saksun is first mentioned in Faroese records in the year 1400. The name Saksun is believed to be derived from the Old Norse word Sakshofn, which refers to the natural harbor of the settlement. Saksun is one of several Faroese villages that were likely severely affected by the Black Death.
Location of Saksun
Saksun is located at the end of the stunning Saksunardalur valley. The valley stretches for 12 kilometers between Saksun and Hvalvík. The tiny village lies next to a lagoon. This lagoon was once a fjord with a harbor, but a storm in the year 1600 blocked the entrance with sand. The once-accessible harbor became a sealed seawater lagoon, now only reachable by small boats at high tide.
Buttercup Route to Saksun
The road to Saksun is part of a Buttercup Route (Sóljuleiðir) and is considered one of the most scenic drives in the Faroe Islands. Just getting there is an experience in itself. A narrow road winds its way through the long valley, following the Storá river nearly the entire way. It reminds me of the Scottish Highlands. Absolutely breathtaking! You won’t pass many cars here—but you will encounter sheep. Apparently, we’re not the only ones who enjoy this peaceful valley.
What is there to see in Saksun?
Although Saksun is very small, there are still several beautiful sights to take in. First and foremost, the location alone is reason enough to travel to this spot. The lagoon, with the little church beside it and the turf-roofed houses, is truly picture-perfect. But there’s more to see and do. Below are a few highlights in Saksun.
Saksunar Kirkja
In 1858, Saksunar Kirkja, the church of Saksun, was consecrated. Until then, residents of Saksun had to walk all the way to the village of Tjørnuvík to attend church services. When the church in Tjørnuvík was dismantled, the people of Saksun carried parts of it back to their village on foot to rebuild it there. The walls were no longer made of wood but rebuilt using stone. Saksunar Kirkja is considered one of the most beautiful churches in the Faroe Islands.
Heljardalsa Waterfall
When it rains a lot, there are more waterfalls than houses in Saksun. One waterfall that usually keeps flowing well even in dry weather is Heljardalsa Waterfall. You can walk up alongside the waterfall for a beautiful view of the lagoon, the turf-roofed houses and the little church. In the mood for a good hike? Follow the trail to Tjørnuvík, which the locals used for centuries.
Hiking from Saksun to Tjørnuvík
From Dúvugarðar, you can hike to Tjørnuvík. Along the trail, you’ll find cairns and markers to help guide the way. The hike offers stunning views of Risin og Kellingin, the iconic sea stacks of the Faroe Islands. You’ll also spot Slættaratindur and Gráfelli, the two highest mountains in the archipelago. The trail is approximately 6.5 kilometers long and takes about two hours to complete.
Dúvugarðar Museum and Café
During the summer months (from mid-June to the end of August), the Dúvugarðar Museum is open to visitors. The museum is housed in a former farmhouse, with the main building dating back around 300 years. Until the 1940s, about 20 people lived here. Surrounding the main house are several outbuildings, some of which are over 200 years old. It’s like an open-air museum!
Not all locals in Saksun are happy with tourists
I hesitated for a long time before writing about Saksun. Yes, it’s a stunning place and I believe anyone visiting the Faroe Islands should see this beautiful village—even though there are countless other breathtaking spots to explore. What held me back from promoting it is a very aggressive and angry local resident. Before our trip, we already read about this man, who often appears in local news after scaring tourists. There are even reports of him chasing people away from Saksun with a gun. Online, you’ll find numerous stories of incidents in the village.
As a guest, you follow the rules of the place you’re visiting. You respect nature, the locals’ privacy, don’t climb over fences and don’t fly a drone where it’s not allowed. If there’s anyone who sticks to the rules, it’s me. If something isn’t clearly allowed, I simply won’t do it.
When you arrive at the parking area in Saksun, you’ll see signs stating that drones are not allowed. Around the parking area, you’ll also find signs warning you not to walk on the grass. Small fences with wire reinforce this message. These fences line the road all the way to the church. It puts you on guard and, no, it definitely doesn’t feel welcoming. Apparently, it’s necessary.
Angry farmer of Saksun
A bit further along, there are no fences or warning signs anymore. While I’m standing at the edge of the grass, enjoying the view (yes, my mistake), a car suddenly speeds over from the farm on the right side of the lagoon. The man is furious. Bright red in the face, he starts yelling like mad—I can’t get a word in. He shouts all kinds of things at me and I feel seriously threatened. Of course, I apologize repeatedly, but he doesn’t care. After his outburst, he throws the car into reverse, turns around on the grass and races back to the farm, leaving deep tire tracks behind. I’m stunned, really. If I had climbed over a fence, stood behind a barrier, or was flying a drone, I’d completely understand. But this? Standing at the edge of an asphalt road?
Should you visit Saksun or not?
Be prepared when visiting Saksun. Stick to the rules and don’t touch the grass—even where there are no fences or signs. Should you skip Saksun after reading this? Definitely not. Even if you just drive there for a glimpse of the beautiful lagoon and the little church, the old farm and the waterfall. The drive through the Saksunardalur valley alone is worth the trip. Just make sure you don’t encounter the angry farmer of Saksun. Don’t stand on the edge of the grass, not even in areas without a fence. It’s simply not worth ending up with a traumatic memory.
How to get to the Faroe Islands
The Faroe Islands are accessible by both ferry and plane. You can fly from Amsterdam with a stopover in either Billund or Copenhagen. Check options via the website Trip.com. You can also travel to the Faroe Islands by ferry. The boat departs from Hirtshals in Denmark and sails to Tórshavn. If you want to bring your own car, you’ll need to factor in the drive to the north of Denmark. Of course, you can also take the ferry without a car. In that case, it’s best to fly to Aalborg; from there, a direct train connection runs to Hirtshals.
Renting a car in the Faroe Islands
The Faroe Islands are perfect for exploration by rental car. I always rent a car with comprehensive insurance, which covers everything so you’re not faced with unexpected costs and you’ll even get your deductible refunded in case of damage. Always check your insurance coverage to ensure you won’t be surprised by extra charges later.
Organized trips to the Faroe Islands
If all the planning and booking seem like too much work, an organized package might be a great alternative. You can find well-structured trips to the Faroe Islands with a rental car included, including ferry crossings from Denmark and stays in various accommodations across the islands. If you prefer to fly and then explore the islands by car, there are packages available that ensure everything is arranged for you in one go.
