Sicily is a true treasure trove of remnants from both the Greek and Roman Empires. The island is steeped in history and culture! One of the most remarkable remains can be found in Taormina: the ancient Greek theatre. This amphitheatre, officially known as Teatro antico di Taormina, is a must-see when visiting the eastern part of Sicily.
Teatro antico di Taormina in Greek times
The theatre was built by the Greeks in the third century BC. Like nearly all amphitheatres, it was constructed against a hillside so the natural slope could be used to support the seating. It is said that the theatre could hold around 10,000 spectators—an enormous number when you think about it. There’s a good chance the Greeks didn’t choose this spot in Taormina by accident; the view of Mount Etna from here is truly stunning. And the audience could fully enjoy it, since the Greeks didn’t include a high wall behind the stage in their theatre designs. A phenomenal natural backdrop for the performances, then, to the delight of the spectators.
Teatro antico di Taormina in Roman times
Several centuries later, it was the Romans who put their own stamp on the theatre. The wall behind the stage was built up high and clad in marble. The Romans “decorated” their theatre walls with tall columns, a feature you can also clearly see in the amphitheatre in Orange, France. The stage made way for an arena with underground tunnels and chambers where gladiators and animals waited for their turn to enter the arena.
Performances in the Greek theatre
Unfortunately, during my visit I wasn’t able to see the previously mentioned tunnels, as a stage has been built over them. In the summer months, many concerts and events are held in the theatre. An additional “ring” of seats has been placed in front of the stage, making the arena appear much smaller.
View from the stands
The view from the stands is truly stunning, especially at the end of the day when the sun is lower and the light turns beautifully warm. Through the remains of the ancient walls, you can see the Four Seasons Hotel San Domenico Palace, now known worldwide after the second season of the HBO series The White Lotus was filmed there. If you climb all the way to the top, you’ll have a lovely view of the other side of Taormina, overlooking Mazzarò Bay. You can’t quite see the beautiful Isola Bella from this spot—just walk a little to the right, toward the terrace near Momento and you’ll catch a glimpse. Perfect moment for a drink!
Definitely worth visiting during a trip to Taormina
You can easily walk to the ancient Greek theatre from the town center. For a complete visit, I’d suggest setting aside about an hour. Don’t forget to take in the surrounding views—they’re absolutely stunning! If you enjoy photography, it’s best to visit the theatre either early in the morning or later in the day. The light is beautiful when the sun is lower in the sky.
Parking in Taormina
I park the car at Parcheggio Lumbi—ideal, as a (free) bus runs every fifteen minutes to the town center. The bus stops behind the Greek theatre, on Via Luigi Pirandello. From the bus stop, walk back toward the entrance gate the bus passed through and follow Corso Umberto until you reach Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Take the street to the left (Via Teatro Greco) and you’ll head straight toward the Greek theatre. Combine a visit to the amphitheatre with a pleasant walk through Taormina and don’t forget to enjoy a good meal. I can definitely recommend Ristorante Badia and Ristorante Myle e I Suoi Sapori!
