A few years ago, I visited the south of Iceland in winter. Now it’s time to explore the north! We fly from Reykjavik to Akureyri with Icelandair, pick up our rental car and head straight to Forest Lagoon (Skógarböðin), one of the geothermal baths in North Iceland. It’s here that we start making plans to drive part of the Arctic Coast Way. Since Iceland is known for unpredictable winter road conditions, we decide to take things day by day and see what’s possible.
What is the Arctic Coast Way?
The Arctic Coast Way is a scenic route in Iceland that officially starts in Borðeyri (Westfjords) and ends in Bakkafjörður (Norðurland eystra), stretching roughly 900 kilometers. It takes you along the rugged, untouched coastline of North Iceland. Along the way, you’ll pass authentic fishing villages, dramatic cliffs and enjoy breathtaking views. Opened in 2019, Norðurstrandarleið, as it’s called in Icelandic, was introduced to offer travelers a unique experience in remote corners of the country; far from the busy tourist areas and close to the Arctic Circle.
Driving the Arctic Coast Way in winter
In the summer months, you can drive the original Arctic Coast Way route. But in winter, some sections are closed. There are alternative roads, but whether they’re passable depends on the day. For example, we plan to drive from wintery Húsavík to Ásbyrgi. But halfway through, we have to turn back due to heavy snowfall. We check the road conditions several times a day on www.road.is, but even then, the weather can still bring surprises.
In the end, we manage to drive over 400 kilometers of the Arctic Coast Way; roughly the central section of the route, along the coast of the Tröllaskagi peninsula. From Akureyri, we include the stretch to Húsavík. From Húsavík, we continue to Mývatn, where we drive counterclockwise around the lake and make a detour to Hverir. This way, we cover about half of the Diamond Circle, making it a great way to experience the highlights of both well-known routes.
Day 1 – a section of the Arctic Coast Way
On day 1, we take a roundtrip on the Tröllaskagi peninsula, starting and ending in Akureyri. It’s a beautiful day trip! If you don’t mind covering quite a few kilometers, because this route is nearly 300 kilometers long. That’s quite a bit of driving for one day, especially if you plan to make stops along the way. But we love it: starting early and often driving well into the evening. I must say though, winter in Iceland is different, since there are only a few hours of daylight. The final stretch back to Akureyri is already in the dark.
Still, we see some stunning places along the way. Think of the Glaumbær turf farm, the Víðimýrarkirkja turf church, the village of Hofsós with its beautifully located swimming pool, the impressive islands of Drangey and Málmey and the viewpoint near Sauðárkrókur. And of course, lots of those charming Icelandic horses. In Akureyri, we spend the night at the lovely G19 Boutique Apartments.
Day 2 – a section of the Arctic Coast Way
On day 2, we drive from Akureyri to Húsavík and from there toward Ásbyrgi. Unfortunately, we have to turn back due to heavy snowfall and very poor visibility, just about 20 minutes before reaching Ásbyrgi. We decide to return to Húsavík, walk around a bit and end the day in one of the geothermal baths in North Iceland: GeoSea. After that, we drive to Sel-Hótel Mývatn for the night; a journey that turns out to be quite challenging due to the snow. By the time we arrive, there’s nearly 20 cm of snow on the road!
Day 3 – a section of the Diamond Circle
After a comfortable night at Sel-Hótel Mývatn, it’s still snowing and we literally have to dig out the car. Luckily, the snowplow passes by at 9:00 a.m., so we can get on the road. We drive along the eastern side of Lake Mývatn to the geothermal area Námafjall Hverir. While we’re there, the weather is dry, so we manage to take some good photos and even get the drone in the air. Just as we pack it away, it starts snowing again… perfect timing!
We continue our way around the lake, but the visibility remains poor. All we see is a vast white landscape and even from above, the drone can’t spot the famous craters near the lake’s edge. Unfortunately, it’s already time to head back to Akureyri for our flight to Reykjavik. On the way, we make a quick stop at Goðafoss, where it’s snowing heavily as well. Even though we can’t see much, it’s once again a great adventure.
One more trip for the Arctic Coast Way
I’d love to return to northern Iceland to drive the entire Arctic Coast Way. There are so many beautiful places along this remote route! Think of the 15-meter-high rock Hvítserkur, located at the northern tip of the Vatnsnes Peninsula and the Arctic Henge in Raufarhöfn, at the northeasternmost point of Iceland. Along the way, I really hope to finally visit Ásbyrgi, the canyon shaped like a horseshoe. As you can tell, there’s so much to see and admire along the Arctic Coast Way. The rest of the route will stay on my wish list for now!
Renting a car in Northern Iceland
Planning to explore Northern Iceland and maybe drive part of the Arctic Coast Way? Then you’ll definitely need a car. In Iceland, all vehicles are equipped with studded tires from November through May, giving you better grip on icy roads. When renting a car, it’s important to ensure that you have full coverage insurance, including all-risk. This way, you can drive with peace of mind, especially when navigating Iceland’s winter roads.
