During our stay at Tyrifjord Hotel in the Norwegian province of Viken, we hike to Mørkgonga, visit the Kistefos Museum and drive a fantastic route through Vestfold og Telemark. Along this route, we arrive in Dalen in the afternoon – a remote village on Lake Bandak, nestled between steep mountains. Dalen leaves a deep impression on me and in this article, I’d love to take you along to this special place.
What to see and do in Dalen, Vestfold og Telemark
Dalen covers an area of just 1.18 km², making it a small village. Fewer than 800 people live here and outside the summer months, it’s incredibly quiet. We visit Dalen in mid-October, when nearly everything is already closed. A pity, as we would have loved to enjoy a cup of coffee and a slice of cake at the famous Dalen Hotel. Still, I embrace the peace and stillness of that moment. Hardly any people, not a breath of wind, the water perfectly still and not a single leaf falling from the trees. Wow, this is where you truly unwind. In fact, it’s kind of nice that everything is closed.
Telemark Canal (Telemarkskanalen)
The region where Dalen is located is well known to many because of the Telemark Canal, which runs between Dalen and Skien. The canal was built in the second half of the 19th century to prevent flooding and to transport goods and people. The Telemark Canal consists of two sections: the Norsjø–Skien Canal and the Bandak–Norsjø Canal. It features a total of 18 locks and overcomes a height difference of 72 meters across a length of 105 kilometers. You can take day trips on the canal, during which the boat passes through one or more locks. There are also multi-day journeys available, allowing you to travel part of the route between Dalen and Skien – or even the entire stretch. Dalen Hotel offers various packages and arrangements for these canal cruises.
Dalen Hotel, Norway’s oldest wooden hotel
With the construction of the Telemark Canal, many tourists began visiting Dalen in the 19th century. The region became especially popular among royalty, as I also mentioned in my article about Raven Gorge. To provide prominent guests with a fitting place to stay, a new hotel was designed in 1894: Dalen Hotel. The design of the hotel was inspired by Viking-era architecture and traditional stave churches. Over the years, many royals visited Dalen, including King Oscar II, German Emperor Wilhelm, King Leopold II of Belgium and King Haakon VII together with Queen Maud.
During World War II, the Germans confiscated the hotel and stripped its interior. Both Dalen Hotel and its outbuildings fell into disrepair and it wasn’t until the 1980s that enough funds were raised to restore it. Today, it is one of the oldest wooden hotels in Norway. The romantic hotel still retains its authentic character, both inside and out. Balconies, turrets, spires and ornate cornices: it’s all still there. No wonder the hotel is often called the hotel from the fairytales. Even if you prefer modern design, stepping inside this hotel is said to be a must. It truly feels like a journey back in time.
Dalen Hotel has received several awards and distinctions over the years. It was awarded a silver medal by the heritage organization Europa Nostra for preserving a unique cultural monument. The hotel also holds the Olavsrosa quality label, a mark of excellence for the preservation of Norwegian cultural heritage. Dalen Hotel is considered the best-preserved example of dragon style architecture (dragestil) in the country. You can probably imagine how disappointed I was to find out the hotel had closed just a week before our visit (it shuts its doors from early October to the end of April). Yet another reason to return to Dalen someday.
Sauna Soria Moria
From the parking area at Dalen Hotel, we walk toward the Soria Moria sauna, located in Lake Bandak. The sauna can be reached via a wooden boardwalk from the shore. After a sauna session, you can plunge into the cold waters of Lake Bandak. Soria Moria is the first of six art installations created as part of the Vannvegens fortellinger (Tales of the Waterway) project. These artworks are being placed in various canal municipalities, each designed to highlight the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Soria Moria is incredibly photogenic, especially at this time of year. Online, I’ve seen many photos where the building and walkway appear completely surrounded by water. During our visit, however, the water level is quite low and there’s a lot of mud visible on the right side. Perhaps it’s due to the season or maybe it hasn’t rained much lately. Either way, it doesn’t matter, it’s a beautiful sight no matter what.
Eidsborg
From Dalen, it’s just a 9-minute drive to Eidsborg, where you can visit the Vest-Telemark Museum Eidsborg. This museum offers a deep dive into Norwegian culture and the history of this part of the country. Several authentic huts and barns are on display and the main building houses a collection of fascinating antiques. A little further up the road stands the Eidsborg Stave Church, one of the oldest and smallest stave churches in Norway. Also nearby is Stålekleivloftet, the oldest wooden storage building in the country.
Raven Gorge
About 20 minutes from Dalen you’ll find a stunning viewpoint: Raven Gorge. From here, you can look straight down into a dizzying 350-meter-deep canyon. In the valley below, the Tokkeåi River winds its way through dense forest, a perfect spot for capturing beautiful photos. If you’re staying in Dalen, this is a place you really shouldn’t miss.
Walk to Rui
A well-known hike is the walk to Rui. The route to this old farm is only 1 kilometre long, but with an elevation difference of 200 metres over 810 steps it can be quite challenging. The staircase is also called Beintsteberg, which translates as the shortest way up. The view of Lake Bandak from this spot is said to be stunning. From here you can continue walking to Eidsborg, a 5-kilometre hike.
Lårdalstigen
Another popular but longer hike is Lårdalstigen. This 14-kilometre trail follows a mountain ridge at 800 metres altitude with views over the Telemark Canal. You can walk it in either direction, but the recommended route is from Dalen to Lårdal. From Lårdal you can take a historic boat along the Telemark Canal back to Dalen.
Walk to the suspension bridge across Hell and Hell’s Waterfall
Along road 38 you’ll find the Nedrebøfossen waterfall. In the 19th century this waterfall was a major challenge for log drivers, earning it the name Hell’s Waterfall. Close to the waterfall is a suspension bridge with beautiful views over the Tokkeåi River and Hell’s Waterfall. In autumn you can also spot giant trout swimming upstream from this bridge. The walk to the suspension bridge over Hell starts at Tokke Kulturhaus and takes about 3 hours.
The whetstone walk Brunåslid
From Eidsborg you can take a walk to the Brunåslid quarry. The quarry was in use from the early 18th century until the mid-20th century. Brunåslid was one of the largest whetstone producers in the region. Vikings had already taken whetstones on their journeys to mainland Europe centuries earlier and objects made from this type of stone have been found in various places. A lot of waste stone called Uslehaugene still lies near the former quarry, left over from whetstone production. This walk is 4 kilometres long.
Unique places to stay in Dalen
There are several special accommodations to be found in Dalen. You’ve already read about Dalen Hotel if you enjoy history, grandeur and charm. Prefer an entire house? Then this beautiful house Dalen in Tokke comes highly recommended. If you don’t mind driving 16 kilometres from Dalen to your accommodation, then this house with a sauna by the water in Vråliosen might be a perfect spot.
Explore the area around Dalen with a rental car
Dalen is ideal for a visit of a few days. Fly to Oslo, rent a car there and within three hours you’ll be in beautiful Dalen. You can choose to spend all your nights in Dalen or make a road trip, staying in different places along the way. I can tell you, it’s very doable, even for about four days. I always choose a rental car with a comprehensive all-inclusive policy. This means you are fully insured everywhere and at all times. Even if you accidentally cause damage to the rental car, your deductible will be refunded. It’s such a great feeling to hit the road with that kind of peace of mind, isn’t it?
