In Iceland’s Vesturland region you’ll find a remarkable set of lava waterfalls: Hraunfossar. You’ll hardly find this type of waterfall elsewhere in Iceland, at least not on this scale. If you are traveling in West Iceland, perhaps on your way to the Westfjords, heading toward Snæfellsnes or driving along the Ring Road to the north, it’s well worth taking Road 518 for a visit to the Hraunfossar waterfalls in the Borgarfjörður area.
Read this article in DutchThe white river Hvítá
The Hraunfossar waterfalls are located on the banks of the Hvítá River, at the edge of the Hallmundarhraun lava field. There are several rivers with the same name in Iceland, but this particular Hvítá originates beneath the Hallmundarhraun lava field. Flowing past Hraunfossar through Barnafoss, the river continues through the Hvítárdalur valley toward the Borgarfjörður fjord. Because the glacial meltwater carries sediment, the river often appears milky white. It’s no surprise the river was named Hvítá, which literally means “white river.”
How the Hallmundarhraun lava field was formed
The Hallmundarhraun lava field, covering over 200 km², lies northwest of the Eiríksjökull glacier. It was created in the 10th century when a volcano beneath the glacier erupted. The eruption is believed to have lasted for several years, allowing the lava field to extend more than 52 kilometers in length.
Lava caves (lava tubes) in Hallmundarhraun
The Hallmundarhraun lava field is home to several caves, or more precisely, lava tubes. These tunnel systems were formed when the top layer of lava cooled while hot lava continued to flow underneath. As the amount of flowing lava decreased, more lava solidified along the top and sides of the tunnel, creating hollow tubes. Beneath Hallmundarhraun lies an extensive network of such passages, some of which are interconnected while others are not. In places where the roof is close to the surface, parts have collapsed, allowing access to the lava tubes.
Several of these lava caves in Hallmundarhraun can be visited. Discovered in 1679, Surtshellir is the most famous lava cave in the area. With a total length of 1,970 meters, Surtshellir is the longest accessible lava tube in Iceland. Two other caves in this region are Stefánshellir and Viðgelmir. Although Viðgelmir is shorter than Surtshellir, it is much wider, which makes it the largest lava cave in Iceland.
Hraunfossar lava waterfalls
Hraunfossar literally translates to lava waterfalls. The moment you see them, it becomes clear why the place was given this name. Stretching over 900 meters, hundreds of small streams and waterfalls emerge from beneath the moss-covered lava field. This happens because meltwater and rain seep through the porous upper layer. The ground below, however, does not allow water to pass through, so the water finds its way to the lowest point — along the banks of the Hvítá River.
Barnafoss, the children’s waterfall
A little further upstream lies a narrow gorge with rapids: Barnafoss. The name Barnafoss translates to children’s waterfall. According to legend, the rapids were named after two children who tragically died here. The boys lived nearby with their mother. One day, while the mother went to church with others, the children stayed at home. Bored, they decided to make their way to the church on their own. To get there, they had to cross the river using a natural stone bridge formed by the water. They fell from the bridge and drowned. Heartbroken, their mother placed a curse so that no one would ever cross the waterfalls again. She then destroyed most of the stone bridge, leaving only a small natural arch behind.
Visiting Hraunfossar and Barnafoss
There is plenty of parking at Hraunfossar. From the parking lot it’s only a few minutes’ walk to the first viewpoints over the waterfalls. A trail runs along the river toward Barnafoss, offering great views of Hraunfossar along the way. Between the two waterfalls, a bridge has been built that allows you to cross to the other side of the river. There are several viewpoints; make sure to stop at all of them!
Things to do near Hraunfossar
In the Borgarfjörður region of Iceland, there are plenty of other beautiful sights and activities to enjoy. On the way, you’ll pass Deildartunguhver Hot Spring. In terms of hot water output, this is the largest hot spring in Europe, producing an impressive 180 liters of near-boiling water per second. Through pipelines, the hot water is transported to Borgarnes and Akranes, where it is used to heat homes.
Another interesting stop is Snorralaug, also known as Snorri’s pool, in Reykholt. Snorralaug is believed to be the oldest hot pool in Iceland. It is named after the 13th-century poet Snorri Sturluson, who wrote Icelandic sagas in Reykholt. He often bathed here and even built a tunnel connecting his house to the pool. The hot spring is not open for bathing, but you can walk around freely and see the tunnel.
If you do want to enjoy geothermal water, head to Krauma Geothermal Baths & Spa, a beautifully designed complex that uses hot water from Deildartunguhver. There are several hot pools with temperatures ranging from 37 to 42°C, as well as cold pools between 5 and 10°C.
Want to discover Iceland on horseback? At Sturlureykir Visiting Horse Farm you can book a riding tour. And don’t forget the lava caves mentioned earlier. I haven’t visited them myself, but others tell me they are well worth it. Interested in exploring a glacier? Around Langjökull Glacier you’ll find plenty of amazing activities to try.
Staying near Hraunfossar
There are several great places to stay near Hraunfossar. A popular choice is Fosshotel Reykholt. If you’d like to stay closer to Húsafell, Hótel Húsafell is highly recommended.
Exploring Iceland with a rental car
The best way to discover Iceland is with a rental car. It gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, stay longer at places you love or even return to a sight you want to see again. When renting a car, it’s wise to choose an all-inclusive insurance package. That way you’re fully covered from the start, without the hassle of arranging extra insurances on the spot. With everything taken care of in advance (including reimbursement of your deductible in case of damage) you can simply enjoy your trip without worries.
