Nazaré is far from an ordinary seaside town on Portugal’s west coast. The place is best known for its enormous waves, which have made it famous around the world. Just offshore lies the deep Nazaré Canyon, a submarine canyon that causes the waves here to grow far larger than anywhere else along the Portuguese coastline. Especially during the winter months, the scene can be spectacular. Towering waves rise from the Atlantic and crash onto the shore with incredible force. From the cliffs, you have a perfect view of the surfers attempting to ride these giants. They wait offshore behind jet skis, which pull them into position at exactly the right moment. Only when you see a surfer on one of these waves do you truly understand their scale.
Read this article in DutchThe power of the ocean in Nazaré
The reason such enormous waves form here is closely tied to the geography beneath the sea. The Nazaré Canyon stretches deep into the Atlantic and reaches unusually close to the coastline, funnelling the energy of the ocean towards a single point. At the same time, swells arriving from different directions converge here, amplifying one another and creating waves that are steeper and far higher than usual.
During winter, conditions can become truly extreme. Waves reaching twenty metres or more are not uncommon, with occasional peaks far beyond that. Several world records have been set here over the years. In 2020, Sebastian Steudtnermade headlines after surfing a wave measuring more than twenty six metres in height.
When conditions are right, big wave surfing competitions are held here as well. There is no fixed schedule, as everything depends entirely on the weather and the swell. On those days, surfers from around the world gather in Nazaré and large crowds head towards Praia do Norte to watch the spectacle unfold.
The best place to watch the waves
You can easily watch the waves from the beach, but an even better viewpoint is from the cliffs near Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo, close to the lighthouse. During my visit, we park the car at Portal de entrada das ondas gigantes de Nazaré, which is also the name you’ll find on Google Maps. From here, it’s an easy walk towards the lighthouse, either along the road or via the paths that run through the greenery along the cliffs. Along the way, there are constant views over Nazaré, the beach and the Atlantic Ocean. The closer you get to the lighthouse, the better the view of the waves rolling in along the northern coastline becomes. You do need a little patience, as surfers spend much of their time waiting offshore for the right wave to appear. But when they finally commit and manage to ride one of those enormous walls of water, it is absolutely worth the wait.
Nazaré itself: beach, promenade and atmosphere
Nazaré is not only about extreme waves. The town itself is also a lovely place to spend time. At the foot of the cliffs lies a wide sandy beach stretching along the coastline. Running beside it is a long promenade that almost always feels lively, no matter the time of day. During the day, people stroll along the seafront or stop to enjoy the ocean air. In the evening, the terraces fill up, music drifts across the promenade and the atmosphere becomes relaxed and easygoing. There are plenty of restaurants and bars where you can settle in for lunch, dinner or a drink overlooking the sea. It is exactly this combination that makes Nazaré so appealing. One moment you are watching enormous waves crash against the coast, the next you are wandering along the boulevard, spending time on the beach or enjoying dinner by the ocean.
The upper and lower parts of Nazaré
Nazaré is divided into two distinct parts: the lower town along the beach and the higher area set on the cliffs above. The two are connected by the Elevador da Nazaré, a short but steep funicular railway that has been operating since the late nineteenth century. The ride itself only takes a few minutes, but it’s well worth doing at least once. As the carriage climbs steeply upwards, views of the beach and the Atlantic gradually open up behind you. At the top, you arrive in the upper part of Nazaré, from where it’s an easy walk towards the lighthouse and the surrounding viewpoints.
Spend the evening by the sea
As you would expect in Nazaré, seafood plays an important role in the local cuisine. Think grilled sardines, sea bream or a traditional cataplana slowly cooked with fish and shellfish. You can still catch glimpses of the town’s fishing heritage as well, with women wearing the traditional sete saias, meaning “seven skirts”, and fishing nets left out to dry along the seafront, an image that remains closely tied to Nazaré. The promenade is lined with inviting restaurants where you can enjoy dinner overlooking the ocean. If you stay into the evening, it’s well worth lingering a little longer after your meal. On a clear day, the sunsets here can be truly beautiful.
