In Iceland you’ll find many mountain passes, some of which are quite challenging. Earlier, for example, I drove road 626 in the Westfjords, a mountain pass called Hrafnseyrarheiði. In poor weather conditions this pass in the Westfjords is definitely a no-go, but in our case, with clear skies, it turned into a real treat with breathtaking views. During my most recent trip to Austfirðir (East Iceland), I drive road S94 to Borgarfjörður Eystri and I am also eager to try the Öxi Pass (road 939), also known as Axarvegur. Both are now firmly on my list of must-see sights in East Iceland.
Read this article in DutchÖxi Pass, shortcut from Berufjörður to Egilsstaðir
Öxi road 939 is an almost 20-kilometer-long unpaved mountain pass crossing the Breiðdalsheiði highlands. It serves as a shorter route between Berufjörður and Egilsstaðir (71 kilometers) compared to following Ring Road 1 along the coast (143 kilometers). Personally, I don’t think you should be looking for shortcuts in Iceland to save time, but rather to experience a different landscape. Unfortunately, on our way north Öxi Road 939 is closed due to bad weather conditions. We continue on Ring Road 1 toward Egilsstaðir instead. Hardly a punishment, since this route takes you through the beautiful Fagridalur Valley, a drive I definitely wouldn’t have wanted to miss.
Road 939 across the Breiðdalsheiði highlands
During our stay in the Eastfjords of Iceland we spend time in Seyðisfjörður, spot puffins in Borgarfjörður Eystri, visit Stuðlagil Canyon and enjoy thermal water at Vök Baths and other hot pools in East Iceland. When it’s time to head south again, we see that Öxi pass, road 939, is open. From Egilsstaðir we first take road 95 through the Skriðdalur ravine and later turn right onto road 939. Immediately, we find ourselves in thick fog with only a few meters of visibility. We can hardly see the surroundings. Maybe that’s for the best, since I really need to concentrate on the road. The gravel track is narrow, full of potholes and lined with blind curves and blind hills. With every bend or rise it’s tense to see whether another car might suddenly appear, adding to the thrill of the drive. The higher we climb, the more snow we encounter. Before long it’s not only foggy but also snowing. From time to time we quickly step out of the car to try and take a few photos without too many snowflakes in the frame.
Every now and then the fog clears a little and we feel incredibly small among the massive mountains around us. Streams of water rush down everywhere, creating waterfalls that probably don’t even have names. What a road this is, challenging yet beautiful! At one point we pass a named waterfall, Hænubrekkufoss. There is no sign and, due to the heavy fog, we unfortunately can’t catch a glimpse of it.
Folaldafoss, 20-meter-high waterfall along road 939
Fortunately, we do get a clear view of the well-known Folaldafoss waterfall. The weather seems to brighten a little, although plenty of snowflakes are still drifting down. The 20-meter-high Folaldafoss plunges straight into a pool below. I can easily imagine the water turning a beautiful shade of blue here on a sunny day. The stream flows into the Berufjarðará River, which we follow alongside us throughout the Öxi route as it winds through the landscape. In good weather this is the perfect place to take a break; sit on a rock, enjoy a snack and watch the water of Folaldafoss cascade down. A true moment to simply stay present.
What’s the best direction to drive the Öxi Pass (Road 939)?
The potholes seem to be most common on the northern side of the mountain pass, while the southern section appears to be in slightly better condition. However, this part of the road has more blind curves and the gradient (for us, downhill) reaches up to 20%. That’s one reason why I recommend driving road 939 from north to south rather than the other way around. This way you can descend the steepest slopes instead of climbing them. I also think it’s more impressive to see Berufjörður appear in the distance and drive toward it. That said, I can’t fully judge, as the northern part of Öxi is shrouded in fog during our drive, so I can’t clearly see the landscape there.
Öxi Pass Road 939 or stick to Ring Road 1?
Road 939 is not classified as an F-road, so a 4×4 is not required to drive it. But if you suffer from vertigo, get nervous behind the wheel or dislike driving in poor visibility, I’d advise skipping the Öxi Pass. The weather may be fine when you start, but halfway through you can suddenly encounter very different conditions. This is no issue if you feel confident driving, but if the very thought of it gives you chills, it’s better to stay on Ring Road 1. The road is narrow, which isn’t too bad on straight sections, but in steep bends where oncoming traffic may suddenly appear (without guardrails) it can be unnerving. When you search online for information about Öxi, some reports may sound a bit exaggerated. Still, the fact remains that steel nerves definitely come in handy on a road like this.
Iceland never stops impressing
The Öxi Pass in East Iceland is truly impressive. The landscapes in this country keep leaving me speechless, no matter how many times I visit. Just when you think it can’t get any more dramatic, new views appear that top the ones before. What always stays with me after a trip to Iceland is the feeling of being so small and insignificant in the face of nature. And at times, it all feels a little intimidating too, in the best possible way.
By the end of the Öxi Pass drive, the car is covered in mud, even the windows aren’t spared. This is where the value of a good all-inclusive insurance really shows. With everything covered from the start, you can tackle mountain roads like this with peace of mind, without worrying about unexpected costs.
