After spending two weeks in Hua Hin, where we explored both the city and its surroundings in depth, we continue our journey to Chumphon to catch the ferry to Koh Tao. But first we spend some time at the peaceful Hat Thung Wua Laen, the northern beach of Chumphon. And I have to say, anyone who loves quiet beaches should put this place on their list. It offers space, silence and the atmosphere of an authentic region of Thailand, with small houses that sit directly on the sand. What more could you want?
Read this article in DutchStaying on the beach at Thung Wua Laen
In Chumphon we stay at Maliblues Bed and Art Gallery, located right on Thung Wua Laen Beach, also known as Hat Thung Wua Laen, Thung Wua Laen Beach and Running Bull Beach. Through Booking.com we rent two adjoining beach houses with a view of the wide and wonderfully quiet stretch of sand. The beach is about two kilometres long and perfect for a leisurely walk along the shore. As you stroll along the water you pass several other accommodations, but I must say that the houses we stay in are by far my favourite.
Bungalow with sea view
The front bungalow, the one with the sea view, is incredibly cute. From the outside it has a warm, bohemian look with weathered wood in soft tones, a thatched roof and a small wooden terrace shaded by palm trees, overlooking the sea. Inside it feels calm and atmospheric, with a light and simple interior. The bathroom is beautifully done, with soft curves, warm colours and handmade details and the shower is wonderful. From the slightly elevated bed you can look straight out of the window towards the sea and watch the sunrise over the horizon.
Beachfront bungalow
The second house, the beachfront bungalow, may look a little more simple from the outside, but inside it is just as atmospheric. The space is light and surprisingly spacious, with a minimalist design and small, thoughtful details. A cosy seating area with cushions invites you to sit or stretch out with a book. Here too the rounded shapes return in the bathroom. The natural materials used for the ceilings and doors, combined with the white plastered walls, create the perfect beach vibe.
Maliblues Bed and Art Gallery, music, atmosphere and good food on the beach
Right next to the bungalows is a small bar where you can enjoy a drink or something to eat. We order several dishes from the evening menu and they turn out to be surprisingly good. With our feet in the sand and the palm trees overhead we enjoy not only the food but also the live music, performed by the owner and his two daughters. It is incredibly sweet to see how they sing together with so much enthusiasm. They perform for just a handful of people, because as I mentioned, it is very quiet during our stay. I have a feeling they would sing even if no one were there at all.
Breakfast on Hat Thung Wua Laen
Breakfast is not included with the stay and the bar does not serve breakfast either, so we are given a tip to eat a little farther down the road at an unnamed spot. From our bungalow we walk to the street and turn left. Soon we reach a tiny local place where you might not choose to sit at first glance, but the toasted sandwiches here are absolutely delicious.
What you can do in Chumphon
If you want to stay a little longer, there is plenty to do around Thung Wua Laen Beach. The long and wide beach is perfect for peaceful walks, especially early in the morning or at the end of the day and when the sea is calm you can swim here as well. From Chumphon you can join boat trips to the small offshore islands, such as Koh Ngam Yai and Koh Ngam Noi, where you can snorkel in clear water without the crowds of more famous destinations.
A little farther inland lies Mu Ko Chumphon National Park, a wonderful area for nature lovers. If you want to get a feel for local life you can visit a market or one of the small fishing villages in the region. And of course Chumphon is also an ideal stopover when travelling from Bangkok or Hua Hin to Koh Tao!
