Some hotels are simply a comfortable base for exploring a destination. Others become a destination in their own right. Tratterhof Mountain Sky Hotel in the South Tyrolean village of Meransen unquestionably belongs to the latter category. I fly into Innsbruck, collect the rental car and continue into Italy via the Brenner Pass. The drive takes around an hour and a half and is an experience in itself. With every kilometre, the Alpine scenery becomes more dramatic. By the time I reach Meransen and follow the final winding road up to the hotel, it is immediately clear why so many travellers choose this corner of South Tyrol specifically for a stay at Tratterhof.
Read this article in DutchPerched at an altitude of around 1,500 metres on the edge of the village, Tratterhof Mountain Sky Hotel sits at the entrance to the Altfasstal valley. Its elevated position provides uninterrupted views across a striking mountain landscape where the Dolomites constantly draw the eye. There are no busy roads, very little development and hardly any distractions. Just forests, mountains and a remarkable sense of tranquillity. With more than 4,000 square metres of wellness facilities, infinity pools, luxurious suites and a truly spectacular setting, Tratterhof ranks among the most impressive wellness hotels in South Tyrol. The hotel is also part of Belvita Leading Wellnesshotels Südtirol, a carefully selected collection of some of the region’s leading wellness retreats.
A hotel designed around the view
From the moment I step into the lobby, one thing immediately stands out: everything revolves around the view. Floor to ceiling windows seem to draw the landscape indoors, ensuring the mountains are always part of the experience. Whether you are in the restaurant, the wellness area, one of the relaxation rooms or simply walking through the corridors, your attention is continually drawn back to the surrounding peaks. Tratterhof does not describe itself as a panorama specialist without reason. On clear days, the Dolomites appear almost within reach. Despite those expansive views, the atmosphere throughout the hotel feels surprisingly peaceful. Sitting outside on the terrace, I hear little more than birdsong while a refreshing mountain breeze drifts through the valley from time to time.
From mountain farm to luxury wellness retreat
What makes Tratterhof Mountain Sky Hotel even more special is its history. Long before it became a luxury wellness retreat, this was a simple mountain farm. Historical records mention Tratterhof as early as the seventeenth century and for generations life here revolved around farming and livestock. In 1947, Franz Gruber and Regina Hinteregger took over the family property. The idea of welcoming guests would not emerge until decades later. In 1981, the family opened a small guesthouse with just fifteen rooms, catering primarily to hikers and nature lovers eager to explore the mountains of South Tyrol.
What began as a modest guesthouse gradually evolved into one of South Tyrol’s best known wellness hotels. Each generation added something new. Additional rooms were built, wellness facilities were introduced and new sections of the hotel were developed. At the same time, the family remained closely involved in every stage of its growth, something that is still noticeable during a stay today. In recent years, Tratterhof has undergone another remarkable transformation. In 2020, several luxurious suites and new wellness facilities were added. A major renovation followed in July 2025, bringing a complete redesign of the lobby, reception area, restaurants, various suites, the beauty spa and the family wellness area.
Despite the size of the property and the many expansions over the years, Tratterhof never feels overwhelming. Perhaps that is because the hotel is still run by the same family. There is a warm and personal atmosphere throughout, giving it a character that goes well beyond that of a luxury wellness hotel.
A room for every type of traveller
Tratterhof offers a wide variety of rooms, suites, chalets and apartments, making it easy for almost every traveller to find an accommodation that suits their needs. Couples often choose one of the luxurious suites with private wellness facilities, while families will appreciate the extra space offered by the family suites and apartments. The higher you go within the hotel, the more spacious and exclusive the accommodation becomes. On the upper floors, you will find the most luxurious suites, many featuring large terraces with private whirlpools overlooking the mountains. Several chalets are also located here, complete with private saunas and, in some cases, even private swimming pools. The interior design reflects the surrounding landscape beautifully. Natural wood, warm colours and carefully selected materials create a cosy atmosphere that feels elegant and contemporary rather than traditional.
Staying in the Luxury Suite with Terrace Mountain Sky
During my stay, I spend three nights in one of the hotel’s most exclusive accommodations: the Luxury Suite with Terrace Mountain Sky on the seventh floor. Measuring around seventy square metres, it feels far more like a luxury apartment than a hotel room. There is a comfortable sitting area, a spacious and stylish bathroom and large windows that keep the mountain scenery constantly in view. The setting is particularly beautiful in the early morning and again in the evening, when the light begins to change across the landscape.
The private whirlpool on the terrace is the feature that truly completes the experience. It is empty by default, but with the push of a button it fills automatically and is ready to use within about ten minutes. The water is maintained at a fixed temperature of 37 degrees Celsius. Personally, I would not have minded it being a few degrees warmer on cooler mountain evenings, although guests cannot adjust the temperature themselves. After 10:30 pm, the whirlpool is automatically drained so it can be refilled the following day. It is the kind of place where you effortlessly lose track of time. During the day, you can relax while looking out across green mountain slopes and dramatic peaks in the distance. In the evening, the colours of the landscape gradually shift as the sun sinks behind the mountains. Sitting in warm water while watching the last light disappear over the Dolomites is one of those simple moments that stays with you long after your trip has ended.
The suite does not have air conditioning. At an altitude of 1,500 metres, that is not particularly surprising, as temperatures in the mountains tend to drop significantly after sunset. The building is exceptionally well insulated, which means the room can remain pleasantly warm when the windows are closed. Personally, I did not miss air conditioning at all. In fact, I prefer sleeping with a window or the terrace door slightly open, allowing the fresh mountain air to flow inside. At this elevation, mosquitoes are also far less common, so there is little chance of being disturbed by them during the night. In winter, that excellent insulation is likely to be an even greater advantage, helping the rooms stay comfortably warm despite the colder temperatures outside.
The hotel has also paid attention to practical details. A wellness bag is provided in the room, complete with a bathrobe and towels for use in the spa, making it easy to walk from your suite to the wellness area in complete comfort. There is also a backpack available for guests to use on hikes in the surrounding mountains, along with an umbrella for those occasions when the weather changes unexpectedly. They may seem like small touches, but it is exactly these thoughtful extras that make a stay feel more comfortable and show how carefully the guest experience has been considered.
Monte Silva Mountain Spa
The surrounding mountains make it tempting to head outdoors, yet spending an afternoon at the hotel is just as appealing. The Monte Silva Mountain Spa is very much the heart of Tratterhof. Spread across several levels, it features a collection of saunas, relaxation rooms and wellness facilities designed for complete relaxation. Wherever you are, the mountains rarely disappear from view. Whether you are enjoying a sauna session, unwinding in a quiet relaxation area or swimming a few lengths in one of the pools, the scenery remains an integral part of the experience. Large windows ensure that the landscape is always present, creating a strong connection between the wellness areas and the surrounding nature. The adults only spa provides a particularly peaceful atmosphere for those seeking uninterrupted relaxation. Several saunas, comfortable loungers and inviting relaxation spaces make it easy to settle in for hours at a time. Even during busier periods, the wellness area never feels crowded. It is the kind of place where time seems to slow down and checking the clock quickly becomes irrelevant.
Infinity pools overlooking the mountains
One of the most striking features of Tratterhof is undoubtedly its infinity pools. The moment you arrive, it becomes clear why so many photographs of the hotel are taken here. The heated pools appear to merge seamlessly with the surrounding mountain landscape, creating views that are difficult to look away from. I particularly enjoy this spot early in the morning, when the changing light continuously transforms the colours of the mountains. The scenery never seems quite the same from one moment to the next. That said, you do not even need to step into the water to appreciate the setting. Comfortable loungers surround the pools and several peaceful corners have been created on the lawns nearby. With uninterrupted views of the mountains, it is an ideal place to relax for a while, whether you are reading a book, taking an afternoon nap or simply sitting quietly and watching the landscape unfold before you.
Families are just as welcome at Tratterhof
Although Tratterhof is often described as a wellness hotel for couples, it quickly becomes clear during my stay that families are equally well catered for. As part of the extensive renovation completed in 2025, the hotel introduced a completely redesigned Family Spa. This dedicated area features several pools, a paddling pool for younger children, water slides, family friendly saunas and a range of facilities designed specifically with families in mind. It is evident that a great deal of thought has gone into both comfort and safety. Children cannot simply move freely between all areas on their own. Access to the Family Spa is controlled via a room key card, which must be held against a reader positioned high beside the entrance door. This thoughtful detail helps ensure that younger children can only enter and leave the area under adult supervision.
Skyland, a paradise for children
In addition to the Family Spa, the hotel is home to Skyland, an extensive indoor play area where children can easily spend hours entertaining themselves. The space has been designed for different age groups and includes a variety of playrooms, an indoor climbing course, a soft play area, interactive games, a cinema room and even a dedicated lounge for teenagers. Younger children have their own separate play space where they can explore safely, while older children can enjoy areas focused more on action, games and entertainment. The variety of facilities ensures there is something for every age group, making Skyland a valuable addition for families staying at the hotel.
For a romantic getaway and a family holiday alike
What stands out most is how successfully the hotel allows families and wellness travellers to enjoy the same property without getting in each other’s way. Thanks to the clear separation between family areas and adults only spaces, every guest can experience the holiday they are looking for. Those seeking peace and relaxation can unwind in complete tranquillity, while families have plenty of dedicated facilities where children can play and explore. Even within the wellness programme, younger guests have not been forgotten. Special massages and treatments have been created for children and teenagers who would like to experience wellness in a relaxed and age appropriate way. This thoughtful approach makes Tratterhof an excellent choice not only for a romantic stay, but also for families looking to combine luxury and relaxation with an active mountain holiday. Beyond the hotel itself, there is plenty to keep families entertained. Several child friendly hiking trails start nearby and during the summer months the area offers themed walking routes, adventure playgrounds and outdoor attractions that encourage children to discover the mountains through play and exploration.
Culinary experiences at Tratterhof
My stay includes half board, which means each day begins with an extensive breakfast buffet. The selection combines South Tyrolean specialities with international favourites, offering everything from fresh fruit and yoghurt to local cheeses, freshly baked breads and a variety of hot dishes. There is plenty of choice, whether you prefer a light breakfast or something more substantial before heading into the mountains.
Dinner quickly becomes one of the highlights of the day. The kitchen blends Italian influences with traditional South Tyrolean flavours, creating varied menus that place a strong emphasis on regional ingredients. Each evening, guests receive a menu from which they can choose several courses, with multiple options available for each one. Rather than serving large portions, the focus is on a sequence of smaller, beautifully presented dishes that allow you to experience a range of flavours throughout the meal. Dinner is included as part of the half board arrangement, while drinks are charged separately.
The perfect base for exploring the Dolomites
Beyond its wellness facilities, Tratterhof offers another major advantage. Its location makes it an excellent base for discovering both South Tyrol and the Dolomites. From the hotel, you can step straight onto hiking trails that lead into the surrounding mountains. The nearby Altfasstal valley is considered one of the region’s most beautiful walking areas, with a varied landscape of alpine meadows, mountain huts and crystal clear mountain lakes.
During my stay, I also visit Pragser Wildsee (Lago di Braies), one of the most famous mountain lakes in the Dolomites. Its vivid blue water, dramatic mountain backdrop and iconic wooden rowing boats have made it a destination recognised far beyond Italy. I also follow the Elfenweg (Fairy Trail) to a beautiful waterfall. The route winds through woodland and along a mountainside and is suitable for families as well as more experienced walkers. Another unexpected highlight is the region’s remarkable Erdpyramiden (Piramidi di terra). These unusual rock formations immediately bring to mind the landscapes of Cappadocia and create scenery that many visitors would not expect to find in the Alps.
It is precisely this combination of wellness, luxury and outdoor experiences that makes Tratterhof so appealing. After an active day in the mountains, there is something especially satisfying about returning to the hotel, taking a swim or enjoying a long, refreshing shower. Afterwards, you can settle in for an excellent dinner with mountain views before ending the day in the whirlpool on your terrace, watching the colours of the sky slowly change as evening falls over the peaks.
An excellent choice for a winter holiday
Although I visit Tratterhof Mountain Sky Hotel during the summer months, it is easy to see why the hotel is also so popular with winter sports enthusiasts. It is located in the heart of the Gitschberg Jochtal ski area, one of the most popular winter destinations in South Tyrol. A dedicated hotel shuttle takes guests to the gondola station in just a few minutes, making it easy to reach the slopes without worrying about parking or lengthy transfers.
Gitschberg Jochtal is known for its sunny location, wide slopes and family friendly atmosphere. Thanks to its varied terrain and extensive lift network, both beginners and experienced skiers can find plenty to enjoy. Families are particularly well catered for, with excellent ski schools and a layout that is easy to navigate.
The hotel also provides a range of practical facilities for winter visitors, including ski storage and space to keep equipment safely organised. What makes a stay here especially appealing is the combination of skiing and wellness. After a day spent in the snow, guests can unwind in the heated pools, saunas and relaxation areas, giving tired muscles the chance to recover. And honestly, a morning on the slopes followed by a few hours in the spa sounds like a very good way to spend a winter day in the mountains.
Is staying at Tratterhof Mountain Sky Hotel worth it?
After spending a few days at Tratterhof, it is easy to understand why so many guests return year after year. The location is spectacular, the wellness facilities rank among the most impressive I have experienced in the Alps and the level of comfort leaves very little to be desired. The combination of luxurious accommodation, extensive wellness facilities, excellent cuisine and an extraordinary mountain setting makes this far more than just a place to stay.
Whether you are travelling to South Tyrol for hiking in the Dolomites, a relaxing wellness escape or a family holiday in the mountains, Tratterhof brings all of these elements together with remarkable ease. What stays with me most, however, is the view. It is present everywhere, from the lobby to the sauna and from the restaurant to the whirlpool on my terrace. Throughout my stay, the mountains are a constant companion and ultimately become the defining memory of an experience I will not soon forget!
