In the French region of Moselle lies a remarkable and still largely undiscovered place: Vallée des Éclusiers. This valley is home to an old canal with disused locks, lined with colourful, numbered houses. For more than a century, the canal was used for inland shipping, but after the opening of a new boat lift, the valley slowly faded into obscurity. In this article, I’ll tell you more about the history of this so-called lock keeper’s valley in Moselle, what there is to see and how you can explore this unique place yourself.
Read this article in DutchHistory of Vallée des Éclusiers, the lock keeper’s valley in Moselle
In the mid-19th century, new ways were sought to transport goods across the Vosges by water. A 3.8-kilometre-long canal was constructed for inland navigation, equipped with 17 locks. Together, these 17 locks allowed boats to overcome a height difference of 44 metres. Passing through the canal was notorious among skippers, as each lock took between 20 and 30 minutes to cross. The canal was also so narrow that ships could only pass each other at certain points.
The canal between Arzviller and Henridorff became redundant in 1969 when the new boat lift, the Plan Incliné de Saint-Louis-Arzviller, came into operation. The locks in Vallée des Éclusiers were decommissioned and the canal eventually ran dry. The lock keepers left their cottages and over time the valley turned into an overgrown, almost forgotten landscape.
Redevelopment of Vallée des Éclusiers
At the beginning of the 21st century, plans were made to redevelop the valley of the lock keepers. The cottages were restored, given new purposes and a cycling path was created along the canal. Today, most of the houses lining the canal are inhabited, often by creative people. Among the residents are a sculptor, an artist, a beekeeper and a potter. If you’d like to experience the charm of staying in one of these colourful cottages yourself, you can: one of them, lock keeper’s cottage number 4, has been transformed into a holiday home.
Exploring the valley of the lock keepers on foot or by bike
The path through the valley is officially intended for cyclists, but you can also explore this fascinating place on foot. However, during high season, it may not be the most relaxing walk with all the cyclists passing by.
We visit the region in early May, but unfortunately, on the day we rent bikes, the rain pours down relentlessly. We decide instead to explore part of the valley on foot later. Our walk begins at lock keeper’s cottage number 2, home to Papar Hasard Crêperie Bretonne et Bar. Sadly, the crêperie is closed during our visit, so no delicious crêpe for us after our walk. The cycling path is wonderfully quiet. Perhaps because it’s still early in the season or simply because it rained heavily that morning.
Walking along the nearly dry and overgrown canal feels surreal. I can imagine that some people might find it “neglected,” but to me it has something almost fairytale-like. This is what fifty years without maintenance or use does: nature slowly reclaims everything. In many places, a thin layer of water still fills the canal, but where it has completely dried out, plants, shrubs and trees have taken over. Some lock gates have been removed, while others stand half open. One thing the remaining structures all share is their reddish hue, they seem to be held together by rust.
A photogenic valley, the valley of the lock keeper’s cottages
Most of the lock keeper’s cottages are truly picture-perfect; thanks to their colours, their setting and the lush greenery surrounding them. I can only imagine how beautiful it must be here in the middle of summer when nature is in full bloom. My favourites are definitely the brightly painted ones, especially those in shades of red, which stand out beautifully against the green backdrop. From cottage number 9 onwards, several houses sit right below impressive rock formations, adding an extra dimension to the landscape. During my visit, I decide that cottage number 9 is my favourite in Vallée des Éclusiers. I could easily spend a few days there!
Unfortunately, we don’t have enough time to walk through the entire valley. I’ll have to return one day to see the last few lock keeper’s cottages along the canal. I’m curious to see how the redevelopment will have progressed by then. One thing is certain: Vallée des Éclusiers is absolutely worth a visit. Whether during your holiday in Moselle or as part of a road trip through the Vosges.
