Just north of Amsterdam, near the village of Broek in Waterland, you’ll find the Volgermeerpolder. It’s an open, expansive landscape shaped by water and reed beds, unmistakably Dutch in character. A peaceful place to walk and to photograph, especially if you enjoy birdlife. Species such as sedge warbler, reed warbler, bluethroat, reed bunting and a variety of geese and ducks are regularly seen and heard here. With a bit of luck, you might spot a bearded reedling moving through the reeds, hear the distinctive call of a Eurasian bittern, or notice a bird of prey gliding above the wide, open fields.
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At first glance, it may not seem extraordinary, yet this landscape carries a remarkable history. Once the largest toxic landfill in the Netherlands, it has been transformed over the years through extensive environmental restoration. Today, it has become a surprisingly beautiful nature reserve where nature has quietly reclaimed its place.
History of peat, waste and contamination
In the early twentieth century, peat was extracted here, gradually reshaping the landscape into a patchwork of narrow strips of land surrounded by water. From the 1920s onwards, the polder took on a very different role. The excavated pools were used as a dumping ground for household waste from Amsterdam. What began as a practical solution for everyday rubbish escalated over time into something far more serious. By the 1960s, large quantities of chemical waste were being deposited here.
Tens of thousands of barrels filled with toxic substances, including dioxins and other hazardous chemicals, were buried beneath the surface. In total, millions of tonnes of waste ended up here, spread across an area of around one hundred hectares. Over the years, the Volgermeerpolder was transformed into what would later be known as the largest toxic landfill in the Netherlands.
The cover up: everyone knew, no one acted
What makes this place even more striking is that the pollution did not come to light overnight, even though there had been warning signs for years. Local residents, workers and even the authorities in Amsterdam were aware, or at least suspected, that chemical waste was being dumped here. Yet nothing was done. It was not until 1980, when a bulldozer accidentally tore through buried barrels and released their contents, that the reality could no longer be ignored.
Under pressure from residents of Broek in Waterland, the landfill was closed later that same year. Even then, meaningful action did not follow immediately. The situation grew into a major environmental scandal, marked by legal battles, political debate and years of uncertainty over who should take responsibility. It was not until 2005 that a viable clean up plan was finally put in place, carried out by the municipality of Amsterdam. The total cost eventually rose to around one hundred million euros.
The solution: sealing off the past
The chosen solution is perhaps the most remarkable aspect of the Volgermeerpolder. Instead of removing all the waste, which would have been technically complex and financially unfeasible, the decision was made to contain it. A thick, waterproof membrane was placed over the entire landfill, effectively sealing the toxic material off from the outside world. On top of that, a layer of clean soil was added.
The barrels that lay close to the surface were removed, but most of the chemical waste remains safely enclosed beneath this protective layer. The system ensures that rainwater cannot come into contact with the contaminated material and prevents harmful substances from spreading further. In a way, the site was carefully wrapped and secured, without disturbing what lies beneath.
Since 2011, the area has once again been open to visitors, allowing people to explore it without coming into contact with any hazardous materials.
From toxic landfill to living landscape
In redesigning the area, there was a clear intention to create an open landscape with space for water and clean rainwater flows, allowing the water quality to remain stable while nature could develop at its own pace. Rainwater is retained in the shallow pools, creating nutrient poor conditions in which peatland and marsh vegetation can gradually take hold.
What emerged after the clean up is remarkable. On top of that protective layer, an entirely new ecosystem began to develop, and little by little nature found its way back. Plants, insects and birds returned, each reclaiming a place in the landscape. Today, even rare species such as the Eurasian bittern and the grass snake can be found here. What was once a closed and hazardous site has evolved into a surprisingly rich and living landscape, where biodiversity is given the space to thrive.
Continued monitoring
At the same time, this remains a place that requires careful oversight, both now and in the years ahead, as large quantities of chemical waste still lie beneath the surface. As you walk through the Volgermeerpolder, you might not notice this at first. It feels like a quiet, open nature reserve. But if you look more closely, you will see simple posts scattered across the landscape. These are monitoring points, used to continuously check whether any substances are escaping from the soil and how the groundwater is behaving.
So far, there are no signs that the system is failing. Still, this ongoing monitoring reflects how seriously the situation continues to be taken. It acts as a subtle reminder of what lies hidden beneath your feet.
A haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers
Today, the Volgermeerpolder has become a surprisingly beautiful nature reserve, and it’s a place I return to often. You walk along narrow embankments, weaving through reed beds with water on all sides and wide, open stretches unfolding around you. For birdwatchers and those who enjoy photographing wildlife, it’s an incredibly rewarding place to spend time. Birds of prey, reed dwelling species and many others can be seen here, drawn by the quiet surroundings and the nutrient poor landscape that supports a rich variety of life.
Walks in the Volgermeerpolder
This is a place made for wandering, following narrow paths that weave gently through the reeds. If you prefer a more defined route, it’s well worth combining the Volgermeerpolder with nearby Broek in Waterland. You can start in the village, continue your walk through the open landscapes of the polder, and end the day with lunch in the centre or a drink on a relaxed terrace. Curious to explore it yourself? Take a look at this circular route or try this walk for a different perspective on the area.
