The French Île de Ré is perfect for a cycling adventure. Known as the “white island,” covering an area of 85 km² in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, it lies just next to Île d’Oléron, it is mostly flat and boasts a staggering 110 kilometers of cycling paths. That makes Île de Ré the cycling island of France! Our plan is to visit Ars-en-Ré, Saint-Martin-de-Ré and La Flotte by bike. In this article, I’ll take you on our cycling journey across Île de Ré, through the most beautiful villages, diverse landscapes and along stunning coastlines.
Cycling from La Couarde-sur-Mer to Ars-en-Ré
Bikes are available for rent at various spots on the island. We find a bike rental shop where we can easily park our car, right in the middle of the island in La Couarde-sur-Mer: HollandBikes. We immediately hop on our bikes and set off. Ars-en-Ré is our first destination; a 30-minute ride (9 km). It takes a little while to find the right bike path from the bike rental, even with the map we were given, but after about 10 minutes, we find the correct route. The bike path between La Couarde-sur-Mer and Ars-en-Ré runs mostly through the salt marshes, just as I had imagined Île de Ré would be.
The weather on Île de Ré, ideal for cycling
The weather is great for cycling, cloudy with little wind. The bike paths are quite busy, but that’s not surprising at this time of year (early August). There are also many cyclists who, it seems, are not as used to cycling as we Dutch are. It’s something to adjust to, but once you do, it’s no problem. While cycling, there’s almost no shade, so I’m glad for the cloud cover. On a sunny day, I imagine you could easily get overheated on the paved bike paths, especially when there’s little wind. Although this cloudy weather may not be ideal for photography, it’s perfect for cycling!
Ars-en-Ré
Upon arriving in Ars-en-Ré, you immediately understand why this village is listed among Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Paved streets lined with white houses, their façades covered in greenery and colorful shutters—how picturesque can it be? The 40-meter-high, black-and-white painted tower of the Église Saint-Étienne d’Ars-en-Ré stands out from everywhere. Around the church, it’s quite busy during our visit as preparations are underway for upcoming festivities. It feels a little hectic, so we quickly retreat to the quiet streets of Ars-en-Ré. One street is more charming than the other and you could easily spend a few hours wandering around with your camera. If you’re here around lunchtime, it’s a great idea to head to the harbor for some fresh seafood. Want to stay longer? There are several lovely accommodations in Ars-en-Ré.
Cycling from Ars-en-Ré to Saint-Martin-de-Ré
After exploring Ars-en-Ré by foot and bike, our cycling journey on Île de Ré continues to Saint-Martin-de-Ré. The map showing the Île de Ré cycling routes indicates 15 kilometers, so we expect the ride to take about 45 minutes. Along the way, we pass many salt marshes, which remain fascinating to see. We also spot fields full of vineyards here and there. Every now and then, we stop for a quick snack, but also to take in the surroundings. What is it about this island? It really has a different vibe from other islands.
Cycling Path on Île de Ré Along Plage de la Mer du Nord
For several kilometers, we cycle close to the coast, along Plage de la Mer du Nord. The bike path here is narrow but beautifully laid out, winding between the coast and the salt marshes. A bit up and down; in my opinion, it’s one of the most enjoyable bike paths we take on the island! Along the way, we come across a few charming spots where you can enjoy local delicacies, such as Ré Ostréa. Dining outdoors directly by the sea, but with a twist compared to most places… these kinds of spots are just too lovely!
Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Upon arriving in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, the capital of Île de Ré, the 14-kilometer-long city wall is the first thing that catches the eye. The star-shaped wall is part of the 17th-century defensive works of Vauban, which are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The center of Saint-Martin-de-Ré is very cozy, with the feeling that you’re always within the city walls. In Saint-Martin-de-Ré, you’ll also find cobblestone streets, narrow alleys and charming houses with colorful shutters. And yet, it feels a bit different from Ars-en-Ré, which is even more picturesque in its own way. Want to stay longer in this spot? Check out these accommodations in Saint-Martin-de-Ré.
Cycling from Saint-Martin-de-Ré to La Flotte
We cycle from Saint-Martin-de-Ré to La Flotte, another village that is on the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France list. It’s only a short ride, just 4 kilometers. In La Flotte, we quickly come across Cr Félix Faure, a beautiful long avenue lined with rows of trees in the middle, where only pedestrians are allowed. Cr Félix Faure leads us to the busy, lively harbor of La Flotte. Here, you’ll find countless restaurants, terraces and charming shops. Although we have no plans to eat just yet, we decide to stop for a drink on a terrace. It’s a lovely spot, especially when the sun seems to peek through. After a refreshing drink, we hop back on our bikes and search for quieter streets and alleys in La Flotte. In and around this charming village, there are several great spots to stay longer. Check out the accommodations in La Flotte.
Cycling from La Flotte to La Couarde-sur-Mer
It’s almost time to return the bikes, so we start our ride back to La Couarde-sur-Mer. We take a different route this time so we don’t repeat the same stretch. The ride from La Flotte to La Couarde-sur-Mer is now 10 kilometers and we arrive just before the bike rental shop closes. Want to stay longer in this lively village? There are several great accommodations in La Couarde-sur-Mer.
How many kilometers to cycle on Île de Ré?
During our cycling tour on Île de Ré, we ride just under 40 kilometers; not too much, really. You could easily double this distance by visiting the other villages. Just make sure to set aside a full day, rather than a little over half a day like we did. Of course, you can also opt to rent electric bikes. We purposely decided not to, especially with the kids. It’s really busy on the bike paths in high season and I find that a bit risky. Plus, we’re healthy Dutch people, so we just happily cycle along!
Discovering Île de Ré by Bike: A Must-Do
What a fun day it was, exploring Île de Ré by bike! Of course, you can spend even more days cycling on Île de Ré and it’s definitely something I would do again. Next time, I’d cycle to different spots on the island, as there’s so much more to see. In any case, we’ve gotten a great impression of Île de Ré, especially of the unique atmosphere this “white island” exudes. We get back in our car and head to the western part of the island, where we’re going to end the day at the beautiful Phare des Baleines. Definitely another must-see!
