Normandy is best known to many people for the invasion beaches, where Allied troops came ashore to help liberate Europe from German occupation. But there is, of course, much more to see in this part of France. Normandy has wide open and gently rolling landscapes, with narrow country roads winding through them and passing centuries old villages along the way. You will also find cities and harbour towns that played important roles in history. There is plenty to discover, whether you are drawn to nature, culture or history. During my stay in this part of France, several places made a real impression on me. In this article, I share some of the most beautiful places in Normandy.
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First of all, Mont Saint-Michel. Who does not know this remarkable island? It lies in the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel, which covers around 500 square kilometres, between the Cotentin peninsula and Brittany. This is the place in Europe with the greatest tidal range. The difference between low tide and high tide can reach up to 15 metres. In the past, Mont Saint-Michel was truly a tidal island. At low tide it could be reached on foot, while at high tide it was completely cut off. Today, a bridge connects the island to the mainland, making it accessible throughout the day.
Mont Saint-Michel has a turbulent history. Since hermits settled on the island in the fifth and sixth centuries, a great deal has happened here. Around the year 700, a religious community was established on the island. In the centuries that followed, Mont Saint-Michel developed into an important place of pilgrimage. The small chapel that marked the beginning gradually grew into a large abbey. Around it, a town took shape, with buildings rising on different levels and narrow medieval streets winding their way in between.
Are you staying in the southern part of Normandy? Then it is well worth making a trip to the beautiful medieval city of Saint-Malo in northern Brittany. Walk along the city walls, which stretch for almost two kilometres, and soak up the historic atmosphere in the walled heart of the city, known as Intra-Muros.
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Honfleur
One of my favourite towns in Normandy is Honfleur. And I am clearly not the only one, as it is busy here throughout the year. Honfleur often appears in lists of the most beautiful places in Normandy, and it is easy to see why. The harbour of Honfleur is wonderfully picturesque and has been a source of inspiration for well known painters for centuries. The tall buildings along the waterfront come in different colours, and many of their façades are covered with slate. Along the quays by the harbour, you will find plenty of inviting terraces where you can also enjoy a good meal.
If you want to escape the crowds for a while, head into one of the many medieval streets a little further away from the harbour. The harbour of Honfleur may be the most famous sight, but the Sainte Catherine church is just as well known. This is the largest wooden church in France. Another striking detail is the bell tower, which does not form part of the church itself but stands across the street. Do you enjoy exploring a place with a guide? Then this walking tour of Honfleur might be just what you are looking for.
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Granville
The city of Granville really surprised me. Before my visit, I had already read that Granville has both a newer part and a historic old town. It is especially this historic area, La Haute Ville, that is a pleasure to wander through. La Haute Ville was founded by the English during the Hundred Years’ War. It sits high on the rocks, is about 400 metres long and 200 metres wide, and is surrounded by old ramparts. Being here suddenly feels a little like stepping into England, with its Anglo Saxon style mixed with Breton architecture, which has been beautifully preserved.
That does not mean the newer part of the city is not worth visiting. This is where you will find the main shopping streets, several fine churches and the harbour. In the past, Granville was already an important fishing town, and it still is today. At the same time, it is a popular seaside resort, and people also come here for thalassotherapy at the local spa.
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Bayeux
The city of Bayeux is best known for the Bayeux Tapestry, or Tapisserie de Bayeux, a piece of embroidery about 70 metres long and 50 centimetres high that depicts the Battle of Hastings. It was made around 1068, probably commissioned by a bishop for the dedication of the Romanesque Cathédrale de Bayeux. The tapestry is considered a major artistic treasure and can be seen at the Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux.
In the twelfth century, the Romanesque cathedral was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt, this time in Gothic style. The crypt beneath the cathedral is the only remaining part of the original Romanesque church from the eleventh century. In the crypt, you can admire fine frescoes, as well as columns and capitals. Bayeux is also a lovely city to explore on foot, especially the historic area around the cathedral. Historic houses, small shops and narrow streets create a wonderfully atmospheric setting.
Behind the cathedral, you will find Place de la Liberté, where a so called Arbre de la Liberté, or liberty tree, stands. The liberty tree is a symbol of freedom that emerged after the French Revolution. The plane tree in Bayeux was planted in 1797. By now, it has a diameter of around two metres and rises more than thirty metres high. It is well worth taking a walk around it when you are in Bayeux.
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Fécamp
In Fécamp, you will find a long stretch of beach backed by chalk cliffs, something Normandy is so well known for. But there is more to see and do in this town. Fécamp has several good restaurants, many of them located near the harbour. You can head towards the top of Cap Fagnet, a cliff rising a little over 100 metres above sea level, either on foot or by car. Here, you can follow a short walking route past bunkers from the Second World War. From the top, you have fine views over the town and across the chalk cliffs to the north.
At the Musée des Pêcheries, housed in a former cod drying facility, you can learn all about the fishing life in and around Fécamp. The Palais Bénédictine is the place to go if you are interested in Benedictine liqueur, as this is where the famous Bénédictine was created. A day in Fécamp is best rounded off on the beach, where you might be lucky enough to catch a beautiful sunset.
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Pont-Audemer
Pont-Audemer was another pleasant surprise during my journey through Normandy. In the past, this small town was mainly home to tanners, who needed large amounts of water for their work. That is why you will find so many canals in Pont Audemer. Small bridges, quiet views and narrow streets make it a lovely place to wander at a relaxed pace. Because of all this water, the town is sometimes called the Venice of Normandy.
Pont Audemer is also known for the Église Saint Ouen, a church built in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, using a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles. You will also find many half timbered houses here, as well as pleasant little squares where you can sit down for lunch on a terrace.
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Deauville
Deauville is an elegant seaside resort on the Côte Fleurie. Until the middle of the nineteenth century, Deauville was a small farming village on a hillside, until the half brother of Napoleon III saw its potential as a seaside destination. He commissioned the construction of several villas and a racecourse. This marked the beginning of a resort that soon became popular with the rich and famous, especially after a direct rail connection from Paris was established.
Today, Deauville is filled with grand villas and luxury hotels. The beaches are beautiful, there is a seawater swimming pool, two racecourses and a casino that is the third largest in France. A visit to Deauville is a striking contrast to many of the other places in Normandy, but it is certainly worth it. I once took a sidecar tour in Provence and you can also discover Deauville by sidecar, which is a great way to see the town.
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Yport
Yport is a small but charming fishing village in Normandy. During the day, the little pebble beach is dotted with brightly coloured fishing boats, which alone makes it a very photogenic place. Between the short promenade and the beach, there is a row of blue and white beach huts, completing the scene. You will find a few pleasant restaurants in Yport, and at the end of the promenade there is also a casino.
It is lovely to visit Yport by bicycle from one of the nearby villages, although the return ride does involve a steady climb with quite a few metres of elevation to gain. An electric bike is certainly not a luxury here. Prefer to explore the coast on foot? From Yport, you can also enjoy beautiful walks along the top of the chalk cliffs.
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Saint Léonard
Saint Léonard is a place that many visitors to Normandy are unlikely to come across. It is a small village near Fécamp, and you do not come here for the village itself, but for the stretch of coastline. On the pebble beach of Saint Léonard, you will find a natural waterfall called La Roche qui pleure. Ice cold water flows here straight out of the chalk cliffs, and on a warm summer day it is a refreshing place to cool off.
We spent time here on several evenings, although not too close to the cliffs, as I could not help feeling a little wary of falling stones. At low tide, it is fun to look for cockles, small crabs and little fish. It is a wonderful spot, with beautiful views over some of the less well known parts of the coastline.
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Étretat
When people talk about the most famous parts of the Normandy coastline, Étretat is usually mentioned straight away. The Falaise d’Aval, with L’Aiguille beside it, is probably the best known sight here, together with the Manneporte a little further along the coast. I have actually seen only a small part of Étretat so far. When we were there, it was so busy that I quickly decided I would rather return another time, outside the high season.
It seems wonderful to walk along the top of the chalk cliffs and enjoy the scenery, but preferably with fewer people around than during the busiest months of the year. The town of Étretat itself is also worth a short walk. Here you will find covered market halls and the Manoir de la Salamandre, a fourteenth century building that now houses a hotel and a restaurant.
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More beautiful places in Normandy
Of course, the places and towns mentioned above are not the only beautiful spots in Normandy. A little further inland, you will also find real gems that are well worth a small detour. One of them is the charming town of Mortagne au Perche, with its winding streets, half timbered houses and inviting little squares, right in the heart of the regional nature park of Le Perche. In the same area, you will find Bellême, a medieval village set on a hilltop, with elegant houses and atmospheric lanes. Even smaller, but just as idyllic, is La Perrière, a picturesque village with narrow streets, classic stone architecture and a wonderfully calm atmosphere. Beyond that, places like Caen, Rouen, Beuvron en Auge, Vernon and Dieppe are also well worth a visit. All the more reason to return to Normandy more than once!