On the west coast of Normandy in France lies the picturesque town of Granville. The town has a long history that reaches back to the Middle Ages, and you will still find many historical sights and monuments scattered through its streets. The best known part of Granville is the charming Haute Ville, the old town that sits high above the sea and is completely enclosed by impressive city walls. Granville is also known for its fishing traditions, its thalassotherapy spa culture, its casino and its lively carnival. It is an easy place to add to your plans when you are staying in this part of the region.
Read this article in DutchHistory of Granville
The Haute Ville was built by the English during the Hundred Years’ War, on top of high cliffs right by the sea. After the war, King Charles VII strengthened this upper town with defensive walls, turning it into a compact fortified settlement overlooking the coast. For centuries, fishing was the main source of income in Granville, and the town became a serious rival to Saint Malo. Just like in Saint Malo, privateers were also active here, sailing in the service of the crown. One of them, Georges René Pléville Le Pelley, was later honoured with a bronze statue that you can still see in Granville today. At the end of the nineteenth century, railway lines were built from Paris to several places along the coast, including Granville. From that moment on, and much like Deauville, the town developed into a fashionable seaside resort and even earned the nickname Monaco of the North.
La Haute Ville
Most people come to Granville for La Haute Ville, the old part of town. This is where it really feels as if you are stepping back in time. Even though we visited in the high season, it was surprisingly quiet and calm. Some of the narrow streets even feel a little eerie in places. I love that. Of course, there is also a slightly livelier spot in the Haute Ville, around Place Cambernon. This is where you will find a few cafés, small bars and shops. The Haute Ville is home to stately buildings and charming hôtels, the large townhouses of wealthy families in earlier days. Many of them are built in a Breton style, similar to what you see in Saint Malo.
Sights in the Haute Ville of Granville
The Haute Ville is not very large and you can enter the old part of town from several points. We parked the car along the harbour on Rue du Port, where there is plenty of parking space. From there, cross the road towards the city wall and you will find a narrow alley between the restaurant Le Soleil Levant and the customs office. Walk into this alley and the path will naturally lead you uphill along the city walls.
Walking along the city walls of the Haute Ville
Once you reach the top, the panoramic views are immediately impressive. That is hardly surprising, as the city walls around the Haute Ville are between six and ten metres high. From here, you have a lovely view of the newer part of Granville and the harbour. La Haute Ville is a wonderful place to explore at a relaxed pace. You can follow the city walls all the way around, or wander through the old town in a gentle zigzag. Wherever you go, you keep coming across fine buildings, beautiful views and small, inviting streets. Below are a few sights in the Haute Ville that you are very likely to encounter during your walk.
Église Notre Dame du Cap Lihou
The Église Notre Dame du Cap Lihou is one of those sights in the Haute Ville that you simply cannot miss. The church dates back to the seventeenth century and was built on the site of an earlier chapel. Inside, the interior is impressive, with beautiful stained glass windows and an altarpiece depicting the crucifixion of Jesus Christ.
Pointe du Roc and Phare du Cap Lihou
Pointe du Roc is the viewpoint at the far end of the Haute Ville. This is also where you will find the 24 metre high lighthouse, the Phare du Cap Lihou. Next to this nineteenth century lighthouse, you can enjoy wide views over the sea, over Granville and along the coastline. From here, you can follow the Chemin des Douaniers down towards the shoreline, and there are several other historical sights to discover around Pointe du Roc. One of them is Le Roc des Curiosités Musée & Aquarium, which I will mention in a bit more detail later in this article. There are also several bunkers left that once formed part of the Atlantikwall, known here as La Batterie du Roc de Granville, as well as a memorial stone for sailors who lost their lives at sea. Pointe du Roc is also the perfect place to watch the sunset. If you happen to be in the Haute Ville at the end of a beautiful day, this is a lovely spot to round off your visit to the old town in the evening.
Museums in La Haute Ville
There are several museums in the Haute Ville. The Musée d’Art Moderne Richard Anacréon has an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works of art. The Musée du Vieux Granville is dedicated to the history of the town and offers a glimpse into everyday life in Granville in earlier times. Le Roc des Curiosités Musée & Aquarium is a museum with an aquarium and a strong focus on the history of the cliff on which the Haute Ville was built.
Jardin partagé de La Haute Ville
On the northern side of the Haute Ville lies the Jardin partagé de La Haute Ville, a shared community garden. It is a peaceful and pleasant place to enjoy a bit of greenery away from the streets of the old town. For the residents of the Haute Ville, the garden has a few extra roles besides being a quiet place to relax. Herbs, vegetables and fruit are grown here, and barbecues and picnics are organised from time to time. Footpaths and stairways run straight through the garden and lead you down to the beach below.
Pont Levis
Make sure to walk past the Pont Levis, an impressive example of medieval engineering and architecture. The bridge was built in the fifteenth century as part of the defensive system designed to protect the town from attacks from the outside. As a pedestrian, you can easily cross the bridge to enter the walled centre of the Haute Ville.
Beaches and sea water pools in Granville
The beaches of Granville are not only beautiful to look at, they have also played an important role in the town’s history. During the Second World War, Granville was an important location in the Allied invasion of Normandy, and the beaches here were also the scene of heavy fighting.
Just like in Saint Malo, Granville also has a sea water swimming pool, the Piscine de mer de Granville. This pool is located at Le Plat Gousset, a wide sandy beach. If you are looking for longer stretches of sand, the slightly more northern Plage de Bréville sur Mer is a good place to go. Here you will also find another pool filled with sea water, the Piscine de Mer de Donville Les Bains.
Musée Christian Dior
Granville is the birthplace of the famous fashion designer Christian Dior. His former home, Les Rhumbs, is now the Musée Christian Dior. The house is surrounded by beautiful gardens, and a visit here gives you a clear picture of the history of haute couture as well as Dior’s own collections.
Harbour of Granville
The harbour of Granville has been an important centre for trade and fishing for centuries. It is home to a large number of fishing boats and trawlers that bring in fresh fish every day for the local market and for export. The harbour is also an important departure point for ferries travelling between France and the Channel Islands. Along the quayside, you will find several restaurants, cafés and shops where you can sit and watch the boats come and go in the harbour.
Day trip to the Chausey Islands
Off the coast of Granville lie several islands that are well worth a visit. The best known are the Chausey Islands, an archipelago made up of more than fifty small islands and reefs. At low tide, as many as around 350 islets appear. The Chausey Islands are a protected nature area and can be reached by boat from Granville. You will find beautiful sandy beaches and clear water here, which makes the islands popular with swimmers, snorkellers, divers and sailors.
Where to stay in the Haute Ville of Granville
There are several places to stay in the Haute Ville itself. Most of the options are B&B and apartments. Two hotels that stand out are Hotel Des Bains and Mercure Granville Le Grand Large. You do need to enjoy quiet evenings, as there is not much happening here after dark. If you prefer a bit more life around you, the newer part of Granville may suit you better. This is also where you will find more hotels, especially if you like the idea of a generous breakfast buffet in the morning. Good examples are Hôtel du Musée en Au Bout Du Quai. If you are interested in thalassotherapy, the slightly more northern Hôtel de la Baie – Thalassothérapie PREVITHAL is a good choice.
More to see in Normandy
There is so much to see in Normandy. For many people, Le Mont Saint Michel is one of the first places that comes to mind. If you are looking for more inspiration for this region, you might enjoy reading the article about beautiful places, towns and villages in Normandy. Since Granville is already quite far south, a trip up into northern Brittany is also easy to combine with your stay. In that case, do not miss the impressive walled town of Saint Malo, which is well worth a visit in my view.
