A few years ago, I visited several places in Vaucluse and immediately fell in love. The beautiful villages, the atmosphere, the food, the friendly people… what a wonderful region! It was high time to return and discover even more beauty. This time, I’m visiting the town of Orange and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is located in the wine region of the same name in the Rhône Valley, between Avignon and Orange. The picturesque village has around 2,000 inhabitants and is a maze of medieval streets and steep alleys with many stairs. You’ll find lovely squares, cozy terraces under plane trees, charming restaurants and, of course, various places where you can taste wine.
Château des Papes
What immediately stands out when you arrive at Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the castle ruin that shines on the hill at the top of the village. The castle was built at the beginning of the 14th century as a summer residence for the Pope, who was based in Avignon outside the summer months. In the 15th century, the papacy moved to Rome and the castle was left abandoned. Over the following centuries, the castle was used during religious wars, as it had a good strategic location. The Germans turned the castle into a weapons depot and anti-aircraft observation post during World War II. After the arrival of the Allies in Provence (August 1944), the Germans blew up the entire northern façade.
Drawings on information boards give you a good idea of what the castle once looked like. Although not much remains, it is still an impressive structure. From this spot at the top of the hill, you get a beautiful view of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the surrounding vineyards and a part of the Rhône River. From a certain angle, you can even see the famous Palais des Papes in Avignon in the distance.
What to see in Châteauneuf-du-Pape?
While strolling through Châteauneuf-du-Pape, be sure to take a look at L’église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, a church from the 11th century. Directly across from the church is Rue de l’Eglise. The narrow street stands out immediately due to the gate, with a house built on top of it. The path slopes downwards and this is where the street gets its nickname Rompe Cul; apparently, many falls have occurred here over the centuries. On Place du Portail, you’ll find a few cozy terraces and you can also see the Grande Fontaine de Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the village’s main fountain, which is said to have been there since the early 17th century.
Wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The wine region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape covers about 3,200 hectares and the wine produced here is among the most prestigious French wines. It is primarily powerful, complex red wine that comes from this area. The main grape varieties used are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, although Cinsault and Counoise are also used. Since 1936, wines from the region have been awarded the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) label, a certification that guarantees the wine’s origin (from this region).
What’s striking in the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are the Galets roulés; large round stones that cover the soil. These stones warm up in the sun, retain the heat and release it to the vines during the night, which is said to be beneficial for the grape ripening process. This process also gives the wine a “stony” taste, one of the characteristics of wines from this region.
Wine tasting in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The best way to get acquainted with wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape is, of course, with a delightful dinner. Now, I’m not a big drinker, but I certainly appreciate a good glass of wine with a fine dish. And I must say, the white wines served with the refined dishes at Restaurant des Fines Roches are absolutely delicious! A day later, I taste a few red wines at Vinothèque, right in the village. It’s a unique place in a cave where animals were once kept, which was converted a few years ago into a location to promote Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Another special wine cellar is Cave du Verger des Papes, owned by the restaurant Le Vergier de Papes mentioned below. Here, you can also taste wines, admire beautifully stored wines and at the back of the cave, there is a space where the Romans once pressed grapes with their feet.
Good restaurants in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Restaurant des Fines Roches, already mentioned above, is an absolute must-visit if you want to dine at a high level in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The menu features beautiful dishes and the plates are paired with truly excellent wines. On nice days, you can dine outside on the terrace, under umbrellas, with a view of the vineyards.
I highly recommend Le Vergier de Papes for a good and cozy lunch. The restaurant is located just below the castle ruins and has a large terrace, so you’re guaranteed a stunning view thanks to its elevated position. Unfortunately, the mistral wind is blowing heavily during my visit, so I have lunch inside. Definitely no punishment, as the interior is beautiful and has a great atmosphere. After lunch or dinner at Le Vergier de Papes, don’t forget to step into the wine cellar (cave) mentioned above.
Overnight stay at Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches
During my visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I stay at Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches, a castle built at the end of the 19th century. It’s situated right in the middle of the vineyards and has 11 rooms, each decorated in a unique way. The room I’m staying in features a large, classic bathroom with a freestanding bath and a shower in one of the castle’s turrets. It’s quite a special experience to shower there, with a view of the vineyards!
Workshop making chocolates at Chocolaterie Castelain
Wine, wine and more wine… understandable in an area like this. However, doing something a little different is also fun. I visit Chocolaterie Castelain, where an employee demonstrates how bonbons are made in the traditional, artisanal way. It’s interesting to learn about the journey cacao takes before it becomes chocolate. It’s a treat to walk around the large shop. The chocolaterie has a wide selection and you’d want to take something home with you from everything on display. Definitely worth stepping in here when you visit Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Cycling along the Rhône
The area around Châteauneuf-du-Pape is great to explore by bike. I cycle with Orange Bike on a section of the ViaRhôna, a bike route that starts in Geneva, Switzerland and ends at the Mediterranean Sea. The route is about 850 kilometers long, but I only cycle a small part of it. Part of my route runs along the Rhône River, but the Mistral wind is extremely strong, so our guide takes us through vast vineyards and dense bushes where the wind is less of a problem. Cycling along the Rhône is very pleasant. The bike path is paved and extremely wide. When cycling in pairs, you don’t need to ride single file when there are oncoming cyclists.
Passerelle de l’Oiselay Via Rhôna
Along the way, I stop to take a look at the Passerelle de l’Oiselay Via Rhôna, a new bridge over the Rhône River that makes it much easier for people in this region to reach Avignon on foot or by bike.
Combine a visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape with other beautiful places in Vaucluse
A visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be easily combined with other beautiful villages and cities in Vaucluse. Consider the famous hilltop villages in Luberon: Ménerbes, Gordes, Lacoste and Oppède-le-Vieux, which are perfect to reach on an electric bike. Prefer to visit cities? Take a look at Cavaillon, Avignon and Orange with its amazing Roman Theatre. By the way, Aix-en-Provence, located just south of Vaucluse, is also worth a visit. In the old town of this city, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the Middle Ages.
How to get to Châteauneuf-du-Pape?
In my opinion, the best way to discover Vaucluse is by car. You can fly to Marseille and rent a car. I always opt for the all-inclusive service when renting a car, as it ensures that you’re covered for everything.
A second option is to take the train to Vaucluse. This is ideal if you want to explore the region by bike, as you can take your bike on the train. If you don’t bring a bike but want to travel sustainably, you can also take the train and rent a car locally. I travel by Eurostar from Amsterdam to Paris, where I transfer to the TGV to Orange. I leave at 07:11 from Amsterdam and arrive at 15:15. It may seem long, but to me, it feels like I’m at my destination in no time!
