I leave Morges behind and board the train to Yverdon-les-Bains, on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel. Less than an hour later, the landscape feels completely different. The vineyards around Lake Geneva give way to wide grain fields, historic towns and protected natural areas. Southern Vaud is best known for Lake Geneva, the steep vineyards of Lavaux and views of Mont Blanc. In the north, the atmosphere changes. Here, castles, wetlands, small wine villages and rural landscapes follow one another at a slower pace.
Read this article in DutchDiscover Vaud by public transport
Visiting Vaud without a car is very easy. As I did in and around Morges, I travel through northern Vaud entirely by public transport. From Morges, I first take the train to Echallens and then continue to Yverdon-les-Bains, a good base for exploring this northern part of Vaud. Château de Grandson is also easy to reach by train, while cycling is the ideal way to discover Grande Cariçaie and the shores of Lake Neuchâtel.
Travelling by public transport fits perfectly with Swisstainable, Switzerland’s sustainability programme that encourages visitors to make more conscious travel choices. An extensive rail network and well connected services make it easy to travel comfortably from one destination to the next. A Swiss Travel Pass makes getting around even simpler. It offers unlimited travel on trains, buses and boats throughout Switzerland, as well as free or discounted admission to a wide range of museums and attractions.
Echallens, the granary of Vaud
If you are travelling from Morges to Yverdon-les-Bains, Echallens is well worth a stop along the way. This welcoming town lies in the heart of Gros-de-Vaud, a fertile agricultural region often referred to as the granary of the canton. As soon as the train arrives, it becomes clear why. Wide open fields, traditional farms and small villages define the landscape here.
Maison du Blé et du Pain
One of Echallens’ best known attractions is Maison du Blé et du Pain, also known as the Swiss Museum of Wheat and Bread. The museum explores the important role that grain and bread have played in Switzerland for centuries. It follows the entire journey, from growing wheat and milling flour to baking bread. The site is currently preparing for a new chapter. Under the name Espace du Blé au Pain, it is being transformed into a new museum and agritourism centre that will bring together the museum, a bakery, a restaurant, a shop selling regional products and the historic Moulin d’Echallens.
Moulin d’Echallens
Just a short walk away is Moulin d’Echallens, a historic mill where grain from the surrounding region has been processed into a variety of flours since 1903. A guided tour offers a fascinating insight into the milling process and shows how traditional craftsmanship has been passed down through generations. The mill still supplies flour to local bakeries today, creating a direct link between the grain fields of Gros-de-Vaud and the bread found on tables across the region.
Yverdon-les-Bains, an ideal base
Yverdon-les-Bains lies on the southern shore of Lake Neuchâtel and is best known for its thermal baths. Yet there is much more to the town than its spa heritage. Its compact historic centre, convenient location and excellent rail connections make it an ideal base for exploring the surrounding region.
Take some time to wander through the old town while you are in Yverdon-les-Bains. Narrow streets, lively squares and historic buildings create a relaxed atmosphere. At the heart of the town stands the impressive Château d’Yverdon-les-Bains, built in the thirteenth century by the House of Savoy. It is one of Switzerland’s earliest square castles and has been at the centre of the town’s history for centuries.
Taking the train to Château de Grandson
One of the best day trips from Yverdon-les-Bains is a visit to Grandson. The train journey takes less than ten minutes. From the station, a gentle walk through charming streets lined with historic houses leads uphill to the impressive Château de Grandson, which overlooks Lake Neuchâtel from its elevated position. This medieval fortress is one of the best preserved castles in Switzerland. Behind its imposing walls lies a remarkable history. During a visit, you can discover how the castle evolved over the centuries and the important role it played during the Burgundian Wars in the fifteenth century. Its historic halls, courtyards and towers offer a fascinating glimpse into life in the Middle Ages.
Grande Cariçaie
If you enjoy spending time in nature, Grande Cariçaie is a place you should not miss. It is Switzerland’s largest continuous wetland and one of the country’s most important protected natural areas. Marshes, reed beds, woodlands, meadows and shallow lakeshores come together here to create a rich habitat for hundreds of plant and animal species. One of the best ways to experience part of this landscape is by bicycle. At BikesLab in Yverdon-les-Bains, it is easy to rent a bike before following quiet cycling paths along the shores of Lake Neuchâtel towards the nature reserve.
The visitor centre is located at Château de Champittet, where several short walking trails begin. Wooden boardwalks lead through extensive wetlands filled with tall reeds, alternating with woodland, viewpoints and bird hides. With a bit of luck, you may spot herons, birds of prey or other waterbirds. For those who would like to observe wildlife in complete peace, it is possible to purchase an access code for a more secluded bird hide close to the water. Even if birdwatching is not your main interest, Grande Cariçaie is a wonderful place for a walk or a bike ride.
Tasting truffles in Bonvillars
From Grande Cariçaie, I continue my bike ride to Bonvillars. This peaceful wine village lies between Lake Neuchâtel and the foothills of the Jura Mountains. While it is well known for its vineyards, the area is also famous for another local speciality, truffles.
At La Sauvageraie, the visit begins with an introduction to the world of truffles. I learn about the different varieties, how they grow and why this region provides such favourable conditions for cultivating them. Then it is time for lunch. Toast topped with truffle butter, a salad with egg and truffle and fresh tagliatelle with summer truffle are served in the centuries old farmhouse kitchen, an atmospheric setting where it feels as though time has stood still.
Searching for truffles at Truffière Didactique
After lunch, owner Frank takes us to Truffière Didactique, a truffle orchard where visitors are introduced to the fascinating world of truffle cultivation. His two specially trained dogs quickly demonstrate just how remarkable their sense of smell is. As soon as they detect the scent of a truffle, they eagerly begin to dig. Frank gently stops them before carefully uncovering the truffle by hand. As we walk through the orchard, he explains how the specially inoculated trees are planted, the unique relationship between tree roots and fungi and the patience required before a truffle is finally ready to be harvested.
Wine tasting among the vineyards of Bonvillars
No visit to Bonvillars would be complete without discovering its local wines. Right next to La Sauvageraie is Domaine La Boulaz, a family run winery where winemaking has been part of daily life for generations. After a walk through the vineyards, the visit continues with a tasting of the estate’s wines. The personal explanations make the experience about more than just the wine, offering insight into the story behind each bottle. Combined with the truffles and the peaceful rural scenery, it makes Bonvillars one of the highlights of my time in northern Vaud.
Where to eat in and around Yverdon-les-Bains
Northern Vaud also has plenty to offer when it comes to food. In Echallens, Hôtel de Ville d’Echallens is a great place to stop for lunch before continuing your journey to Yverdon-les-Bains. The menu is rooted in French cuisine with seasonal ingredients, making it a fitting introduction to the flavours of the region.
In Yverdon-les-Bains, Café de la Promenade is a great place to enjoy a traditional Swiss cheese fondue. Prepared with regional cheeses and homemade ingredients, it is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. After a day spent exploring the region, this is exactly the kind of meal to linger over while soaking up the relaxed atmosphere.
For dinner, La Pinte in the heart of Yverdon-les-Bains is another excellent choice. This welcoming brasserie serves traditional dishes prepared with regional ingredients, alongside French and Italian influences. The warm atmosphere and carefully selected local wines make it a wonderful place to end the day.
Where to stay in Yverdon-les-Bains
During my stay in Yverdon-les-Bains, I stayed at Hotel La Prairie, a comfortable hotel in a quiet location just outside the busiest part of the town centre. It is a relaxing place to return to after a day of exploring the region. A bus to the centre stops right outside the hotel, although the historic heart of Yverdon-les-Bains is also within easy walking distance, taking around ten minutes on foot.
Discover more of Vaud
Yverdon-les-Bains is an excellent base for exploring northern Vaud, but the southern part of the canton is equally worth discovering. Consider visiting Morges, a charming town on the shores of Lake Geneva. Stroll along the lakeside promenade with views of Mont Blanc, visit the historic Château de Morges and spend some time wandering through the atmospheric old town.
The area around Morges is home to several fascinating attractions as well. Admire the colourful gardens of Château de Vullierens, discover Switzerland’s freshwater ecosystems at Maison de la Rivière or enjoy a wine tasting at Domaine Henri Cruchon in the La Côte wine region. A visit to the historic Moulin de Sévery oil mill is also well worth adding to your itinerary.
Whether you choose to explore northern or southern Vaud, the region offers a rewarding mix of nature, historic towns, castles, vineyards and passionate local producers. It is this diversity that makes Vaud a destination where you can easily spend several days without running out of places to discover.
