Phraya Nakhon Cave is perhaps the most remarkable place in Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. Inside the cave, high above the ground, stands the Kuha Karuhas Pavilion, often referred to as the “temple in the cave.” Technically, it isn’t a temple but a royal pavilion, built in 1890 to honour King Rama V, who visited the cave. The hike to reach the cave is challenging, but the moment you see the pavilion illuminated by a beam of sunlight, all the effort instantly feels worth it.
Read this article in DutchWhy Phraya Nakhon Cave is so special
What makes Phraya Nakhon Cave truly unique is its structure: the cave consists of several chambers and in multiple spots, the ceiling has collapsed, allowing natural light to stream inside. Thanks to this sunlight, trees and shrubs grow inside the cave, creating an almost magical, fairytale-like atmosphere. On sunny days, the way the light filters through the openings is simply breathtaking.
The discovery of Phraya Nakhon Cave
Phraya Nakhon Cave was discovered in the 17th century by Chao Phraya Nakhon Sri Thammarat, a fisherman who was seeking shelter during a fierce storm. Hidden among the limestone hills (now part of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park) he stumbled upon this secret cave. It was later named after him: Phraya Nakhon Cave.
The royal history of Phraya Nakhon Cave
After its discovery, the cave remained a well-kept secret for a long time, known only to the local population. That changed at the end of the 19th century when the Kuha Karuhas Pavilion was built to commemorate the visit of King Rama V. Later, King Rama VII and King Rama IX also visited the cave.
The elegant royal pavilion still stands today, right in the middle of the cave. Perfectly positioned so that, at a certain time of day, sunlight shines directly onto it, creating a breathtaking sight.
Starting the hike to the cave
The hike to the so-called “temple in the cave,” as many people know it, begins in the small fishing village of Ban Bang Pu on the edge of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. In terms of distance, it’s only about one kilometre as the crow flies, but the elevation makes the hike quite challenging. The route can be divided into three sections: first, a climb up a hill from Ban Bang Pu, then a flat stretch along the beach and finally, a steep ascent to the cave itself.
At the parking area, you can buy both your entrance ticket for the cave and the general access ticket for the national park. If you prefer, you can skip the first part of the trail by taking a boat to Laem Sala Beach and start your hike from there. However, keep in mind that during low tide, you’ll need to walk quite a distance across a muddy seabed to reach the boat, so taking the boat isn’t always the faster option.
First stage: climbing the hill
Most people take about 30 minutes to complete the first part of the hike to the cave and so do we. We don’t walk it all in one go but take our time to enjoy the various viewpoints along the way and to watch the monkeys we encounter on the trail.
We take plenty of short breaks to drink water; it is incredibly hot, even early in the morning and despite the absence of direct sunlight. We brought 4.5 litres of water for the four of us and it is anything but excessive. Sturdy shoes are also highly recommended; the paths are steep, uneven and often covered with loose rocks. On some sections, it’s actually easier to walk on the low wall next to the fence, although that’s less comfortable on the very steep parts.
Second stage: walking along Laem Sala Beach
Once you’ve crossed the hill, the second stage of the hike begins with a flat stretch. Here, you can either walk directly along Laem Sala Beach or follow the shaded path beneath the trees. I personally love this spot! In the morning, it’s wonderfully peaceful and quiet. You’ll also find a small restaurant here, which makes for a perfect place to stop on your way back for a simple snack and a refreshing drink.
Third stage: the climb to the temple cave
From the beach, a path leading inland marks the start of the third stage of the hike: the steep climb to the cave. This is where it gets truly challenging: the trail consists of uneven stone steps winding about 400 metres uphill. Along the way, we pass several first aid stations and multiple signs warn hikers about the dangers of combining heat with strenuous exercise. These warnings are not without reason. As we approach the cave, a couple of first aid workers rush past us and shortly after, we see a young man sitting by the trail, breathing through an oxygen mask.
The entrance to the Phraya Nakhon Cave
After about 40 minutes of climbing (including a few short breaks) we finally reach the entrance to the cave. It’s incredible to imagine that this hidden place was once discovered by someone searching for shelter, starting all the way down at sea level! From the highest point, you descend quite a bit into the cave until you reach the first chamber. Here, part of the roof has collapsed, allowing natural sunlight to stream inside and creating a small “mini forest” of trees and shrubs. After taking a moment to look around, we quickly continue towards the Kuha Karuhas Pavilion, eager not to miss the beautiful light. A narrow path leads through a lower section of the cave, eventually bringing us to the famous spot where the royal pavilion stands.
The best time of year to visit Phraya Nakhon Cave
Unfortunately, the sun didn’t make an appearance during our visit, so we miss out on the dreamy beams of light streaming through the cave’s ceiling. This time of year (we visit the cave in July) isn’t the most ideal period to see the cave at its very best; even when the sun is shining. The most spectacular time to visit is between December and March. Around 10:30 a.m. during these months, sunlight falls directly onto the pavilion, filling the entire cave with a magical glow. That said, it doesn’t make the experience any less breathtaking. Even without the perfect lighting, this is an incredibly photogenic spot and, in my opinion, an absolute must-visit at any time of the year.
Royal inscriptions
Be sure to walk all the way around the pavilion, as it looks completely different from every angle. Along the way, you’ll come across the inscriptions left in the rock wall by the three Thai kings during their visits. A fascinating detail that adds even more meaning to this extraordinary place.
Walking back to Ban Bang Pu
The hike back is less demanding than the way up, but it’s noticeably busier. By late morning, more and more people are climbing up and the stairs can get quite crowded. We even see the young man we’d noticed earlier with an oxygen mask now being carried down on a stretcher, it didn’t look good. By this point, our 4.5 litres of water are almost finished. It’s surprising to see how many people attempt this hike with nothing more than a single 0.5-litre bottle. On the way back, we stop at the small restaurant for something to eat and drink before tackling the climb over the hill between Laem Sala Beach and Ban Bang Pu one more time.
What else to see in Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park?
While Phraya Nakhon Cave may be the star attraction of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, there’s so much more to see in this stunning area. Don’t miss the beautiful Bueng Bua Boardwalk, a wooden walkway built through a vast freshwater marsh surrounded by dramatic limestone peaks. The Kissing Cave is another highlight; a completely different kind of cave experience, made even more special by the scenic boat ride that takes you there. The park is also home to several lovely beaches and multiple viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramas over the karst mountains and coastline. One of the best views can be found at the Khao Daeng Viewpoint. For a touch of culture, visit Wat Khao Daeng, a charming temple beautifully set at the foot of towering limestone cliffs. And finally, make sure to drive along Road 1021: from here, you’ll enjoy what might just be the most spectacular view of the park’s distinctive ridges and peaks.
