When planning a trip to Finland, you quickly realise that the country looks completely different depending on the season. Around Saimaa, the largest lake in Finland, it’s not only the landscape that changes dramatically, but also the entire atmosphere of the journey itself. That is exactly what makes the choice so difficult: should you visit this region in summer or in winter?
Read this article in DutchThe same region, a completely different atmosphere
I visit Saimaa twice, each time in a different season, and it honestly feels as though I have arrived in two entirely different destinations. In summer, I spend my days along green shorelines, sailing between small islands while the evenings seem to last forever because the sun barely disappears below the horizon. A few months later, I find myself standing in those exact same places again, only now surrounded by snow and ice, in a landscape so quiet that the only sound is the crunch of snow beneath my shoes.
Saimaa in Finland during summer
If you visit Saimaa in summer, life revolves almost entirely around being outdoors. Everywhere you look, there are wooden lakeside cabins, small boats drifting across the water and people relaxing on piers while the sauna slowly heats up nearby. What perhaps makes this region of Finland feel most special in summer are the long evenings. Even late at night, the light still lingers, making the days seem endless. On warm evenings, you eat outside by the water, take another walk along the lakeshore and barely notice how late it has become. If you really want to experience the atmosphere at its best, celebrating midsummer near Saimaa is highly recommended.
The atmosphere around the lake feels calm and relaxed, yet never dull. You can take boat trips between the islands, kayak across mirror still water, walk through the forests and of course enjoy a sauna followed by a swim in the lake. Along the shoreline, ancient rock paintings can still be seen, and with some luck you may even spot the rare Saimaa ringed seal, a species found nowhere else in the world.
Even driving through the forests never really becomes monotonous, because beautiful viewpoints appear unexpectedly along the way. One moment you stop for a fika in a quiet spot surrounded by nature, the next you are sitting on a terrace in Lappeenranta overlooking the water. There are no dramatic mountain ranges or rugged landscapes here. Instead, the scenery feels soft and welcoming, shaped by forests, lakes and countless small islands. It is exactly this variety that makes the summer months so perfect for a road trip through Finland.
Saimaa in Finland during winter
Where summer in Saimaa revolves around water and endless light, winter feels quiet, remote and almost unreal. Return to the same region in winter and some places are barely recognisable. Large parts of the lake are frozen, trees are covered in snow and an almost complete stillness hangs over the landscape. What stands out most during a winter journey through this part of Finland is the silence. Not the kind of silence you occasionally experience at home, but real silence, where the only sound is the crunch of your own footsteps in the snow.
Because the landscape changes so dramatically, the entire region is experienced in a completely different way. You walk across frozen lakes, go snowshoeing through snow covered forests, cross country ski through quiet winter scenery or skate on the ice when conditions allow. Along the way, you warm up with hot chocolate or a Finnish fika in an isolated spot surrounded by nature, while smoke slowly rises from wooden cabins hidden among the snowy trees. Even the sauna experience feels different in winter. Outside, the temperatures are well below freezing and snow surrounds everything, while inside the wooden sauna the warmth slowly returns to your body. That contrast feels unmistakably Finnish.
What I also love about visiting Saimaa in winter is that it feels far quieter than well known winter destinations such as Lapland further north. Of course, Lapland offers a wider range of winter activities, but you also share the experience with huge numbers of visitors. Winter around the Saimaa region feels much more intimate, with very few tourists around. For photographers, this is an especially beautiful time to visit. The soft winter light, snow covered trees and frozen lake create landscapes that feel photogenic almost all the time.
Summer or winter in Finland: which should you choose?
If you are unsure whether to visit Finland in summer or winter, the choice mainly depends on the kind of experience you are looking for. Summer around Saimaa is perfect if you enjoy long evenings, boat trips, road journeys and relaxed days by the water. Everything feels bright, green and almost endless. Winter, on the other hand, is ideal if you dream of snow, silence and classic Finnish winter experiences such as snowshoeing, cross country skiing and warming up in a sauna beside a frozen lake. The atmosphere then feels calmer, softer and far more intimate.
Perhaps that is ultimately what makes Saimaa so special. It is not only about what you do there, but about the way an entire season completely changes the feeling of the landscape. In summer, the region feels lively and open ended, while winter gives it something quiet and almost surreal. And honestly? Now that I have experienced both seasons here, I still cannot choose between them.
Beautiful places to stay around Saimaa in summer and winter
Whether you visit this part of the Finnish Lakeland in summer or winter, there are plenty of special places to stay around Saimaa. Think cosy lakeside cabins, small scale nature resorts and accommodations where a sauna is simply part of everyday life. During my travels, I stay at the beautiful Sahanlahti Resort in Puumala, overlooking the lake and offering suites with private saunas and jacuzzis.
Around Lappeenranta and elsewhere along the shores of Saimaa, you’ll also find many other beautiful places to stay where nature, peace and the water are always close by.
Looking for more inspiration? Be sure to read my articles about beautiful places to stay around Saimaa and my favourite accommodations near the lake.
