After visiting Lake Saimaa in summer I became curious about what South Karelia in Finland would look like in winter. Time to return for a cold season visit! I had already experienced winter in the Finnish Lakeland before, including trips to Lahti and Jyväskylä, but South Karelia was still new to me. Just like in summer Lake Saimaa dominates the landscape here. Only the scenery looks completely different. Instead of water, wooden piers and green islands you now see snow and ice stretching across the lake. What remains unchanged is the quiet atmosphere that makes this region so special. In winter everything feels even calmer and purer and in some places almost otherworldly. The lake freezes over, trees take on silent sculptural shapes and the days are filled with that soft glowing light you only experience this far north.
Read this article in DutchIn summer my time around Lake Saimaa revolves around cycling from island to island, walking through forests, spending time on the water, enjoying fika in unexpected places, celebrating Juhannus and staying in wonderful lakeside accommodations. And all of it at a wonderfully relaxed pace. In winter the rhythm is much the same, only the atmosphere changes completely. Boats give way to horse drawn sleighs, forest paths turn into snowy walking and cross country trails and sauna rituals feel even more intense when the air outside is freezing and the landscape is covered in deep snow. South Karelia reveals a completely different side of Lake Saimaa in winter, one that is just as impressive.
South Karelia in winter
South Karelia lies in the southeast of Finland, partly within the historic region of Karelia, in the area known as Finnish Lakeland. The landscape here is shaped by Lake Saimaa, the largest lake in Finland and one of the largest freshwater lakes in Europe. Covering more than 4,200 square kilometres, with around 14,000 islands and almost 15,000 kilometres of shoreline, the area around the lake feels like an endless labyrinth of water.
In South Karelia you will find places such as Lappeenranta, Imatra and Luumäki, towns where nature, local life and a relaxed Finnish atmosphere come together. Once Lake Saimaa freezes over in winter the landscape suddenly seems to grow larger. Where there is water in summer, an immense white plain now appears and becomes part of everyday life. Because this region feels far less touristy than Finnish Lapland you experience the Finnish winter here in a calm and very authentic way. In this article I will share some of the things you can experience in South Karelia in winter.
Lappeenranta, winter city on Lake Saimaa
On the southern shore of Lake Saimaa lies Lappeenranta, a lively city that becomes surprisingly atmospheric in winter. Once the lake freezes over the landscape changes completely. In summer you see boats and kayaks passing by here, but in winter the lake turns into a vast white plain stretching far beyond the city. Locals make full use of it. Walking routes are prepared, cross country tracks appear on the ice and children play in places where boats were moored only a few months earlier.
From the historic fortress of Lappeenranta, known as Lappeenrannan linnoitus, you have a beautiful view over the frozen expanse of Lake Saimaa. The same is true for many places along the shoreline. Wherever you stand close to the water the view often opens wide across the lake. It feels slightly surreal when I realise that during midsummer I was floating here in a boat, watching the large bonfire burning on the shore.
In the centre of Lappeenranta you will find a variety of small independent shops. It is worth stepping inside places where local artists sell their work, such as Ideri. And although it might not be the first thing that comes to mind in winter, ice cream is also a perfectly normal treat in Finland during the colder months. At Gelateria Marina Vallongo, Marina prepares fresh ice cream in a range of surprising flavours. If you would like to see more of Lappeenranta and learn about the history of the city, a guided walk is well worth considering.
Fine dining in Lappeenranta
For a memorable dinner in Lappeenranta I highly recommend Ravintola Sumu. At this fine dining restaurant you do not order from a traditional menu but simply allow the kitchen to surprise you. You can choose between a two, four or six course menu, with the option of accompanying wines or a carefully selected alcohol free pairing. The dishes are beautifully presented and full of surprising flavours. A wonderful place for an evening out in the city.
Coffee culture in Lappeenranta
Finland is well known for its coffee culture and Lappeenranta is no exception. Coffee is simply part of everyday life here. Two well known local roasters are Makea Coffee and Lehmus Roastery. Next to Lehmus Roastery you will find Cafe Samatie 6, located in a former horse stable dating back to 1914. In this cosy setting you can enjoy Lehmus coffee prepared in different ways. It is also a lovely place to stop for cake or a relaxed lunch.
If you still feel like more cake after the treats mentioned above, a visit to Café Majurska is well worth it. You will find this inviting café inside a historic wooden building in the old fortress, exactly the kind of place where you like to settle down after a walk through the city. Take a moment to explore the small shops in the same building as well. You will find a little bit of everything here, from art by local artists to home accessories, from fashion items to fragrant herbs for cooking.
Peat sauna in Lappeenranta
If you want to truly relax on a cold day, Myllysaari Lakeside Sauna is a wonderful place to visit. This sauna complex lies directly on the shores of Lake Saimaa. One of the experiences you can try here is a peat sauna, a traditional Finnish wellness ritual in which warm peat is applied to the skin. While sitting in the sauna and looking out over the lake, the peat gently nourishes the skin and helps relax the muscles. After about twenty minutes in the heat you cool down with a cold dip in the lake or a refreshing shower, depending on what feels comfortable. I can highly recommend finishing the experience with a relaxing massage. It completes the treatment and makes the whole sauna ritual even more enjoyable.
Valkoinen Kukka: huskies and Finnish traditions in nature
If you would like to immerse yourself even more in Finnish life, a visit to Valkoinen Kukka just outside the city is well worth it. Mervi, her husband Pasi and their Siberian huskies and horses welcome visitors warmly to their small farm. They have created a place where nature and tranquillity are at the heart of everything. You spend time with the dogs, learn more about their lives and in winter you can take a short sled ride with the huskies.
Afterwards you can warm up with tea by the fire inside a tipi while Mervi talks about Finnish traditions. She also introduces visitors to traditional drumming and singing during a drum session. If you would like to complete the Finnish outdoor experience, you can also enjoy the sauna here overlooking the lake. It is an experience that fits perfectly with a winter trip to South Karelia.
Imatra and the impressive Vuoksi river
About half an hour away lies Imatra, a town best known for the impressive Vuoksi river. This river carries the water of Lake Saimaa towards Russia and is one of the fastest flowing rivers in Finland. While many lakes in the region freeze over in winter the Vuoksi largely remains open because of its strong current, even during the coldest periods. Early in the morning the area around the river can feel especially atmospheric. A thin layer of mist often rises from the water while the banks are covered in snow, creating a quiet almost dreamlike winter scene.
A place you will likely want to stop for is the castle like Imatran Valtionhotelli. This Art Nouveau building was designed by architect Usko Nyström and opened in 1903. Its appearance feels almost fairy tale like, especially in winter. In September 2025 the hotel became part of Peerâ Hotels & Cottages, a collection with distinctive accommodations in different parts of Finland. I only see the castle in the dark, but it still leaves a strong impression. It is definitely a place I would love to return to one day to admire it in daylight as well. Tip: Restaurant Cascade inside the hotel is a wonderful place for dinner.
Soundome Jääsoitinkonsertti: music made with ice
During my stay at Vuoksen Kalastuspuisto I attend a remarkable concert that lasts about forty five minutes. The music is performed on instruments made partly from ice. The ice comes from the Vuoksi river and is incorporated into existing instruments or forms part of them, creating a sound that is delicate and almost crystal clear. It is fascinating to watch and listen to. One small downside is that the stories between the pieces are told in Finnish, which means I cannot follow everything. The temperature inside the igloo is also quite low, so if you ever attend this concert it is wise to dress extra warmly and bring hand warmers.
Dry suit floating in Imatra
I had tried it once before in Jyväskylä: dry suit floating, sometimes also called Arctic floating. You put on a waterproof suit over your own clothes and then slowly enter the water. Once you are in, the suit keeps you naturally afloat, either upright or lying back on the surface. In Jyväskylä it felt slightly more adventurous because I walked across the ice until it finally broke beneath me. Here in Imatra the opening in the ice is already prepared and I simply step down into the water using a small ladder. Perhaps that makes it a little less exciting, but the experience is still just as special.
Luumäki, peace and nature in South Karelia
West of Lappeenranta lies the small village of Luumäki, a quiet place surrounded by the forested landscapes of South Karelia. Here you immediately notice how silent and pure winter in Finland can feel. During my stay I am surrounded by tall trees and walk along narrow roads where I do not meet another person. It is wonderful to wander through the landscape on the way to a nearby lake, stopping now and then to take photographs. At some point I even catch myself thinking: what will I actually do with all these photos of snow covered pine branches?
Horses in the snow in Luumäki
Luumäki is a wonderful place for a ride on horseback, but also for a horse drawn sleigh ride through the winter landscape. That is exactly what we do here. Our sleigh is pulled by a Finnish working horse, a Suomenhevonen, also known as the Finnhorse. This breed developed at the end of the nineteenth century and was used for many different tasks for decades, from farm work and forestry to service in the Finnish army. These horses are strong and reliable and well adapted to the cold climate and demanding conditions. Even today they still play an important role in rural life in Finland.
Rutola
During my stay in Finnish Karelia at Salpalinjan Hovi in Rutola I discover a remarkable piece of history just a few minutes from the accommodation. Hidden in the forest stands a bunker that forms part of the Salpalinja, a vast defensive line Finland built along its eastern border between 1940 and 1944 after the Winter War with the Soviet Union. Across the landscape you can still find bunkers, trenches and other military structures that were intended to stop a possible invasion.
One of the sites you can visit here is known as the cave, a bunker partly carved into the rock. Walking around here feels almost surreal. While the forest appears calm and peaceful, these structures quietly remind you of a time when Finland had to prepare for war.
Unique places to stay in South Karelia
During a winter trip through South Karelia you will find a surprising number of special places to stay. Think of authentic accommodations surrounded by forest, boutique hotels by the lake or cottages beside a river where you can step out of your own sauna and look out over the snowy landscape. In Luumäki, Lappeenranta, Rutola and Imatra you will find several places like this where nature, tranquillity and Finnish hospitality come together. Here are a few memorable places to stay during a winter journey through South Karelia.
Tuhannen Tarinan Talo in Luumäki is a charming farmhouse that is more than one hundred years old, set right in the middle of nature. You have several options here. You can stay on a half board or full board basis, or make use of the kitchen and prepare your own meals. I stay here on a full board basis and can honestly say that the meals are excellent.
Hotelli Lähde in Lappeenranta is located in a spa complex that is more than one hundred years old, right by the harbour of the city. The rooms are spacious and comfortable. I stayed here once before in summer and returned again in winter. In both seasons the view across the lake is truly special.
Pulsan Asema in Lappeenranta is a charming place in the Finnish countryside, set in a historic railway station dating back to 1869 that has been transformed into a café and boutique bed and breakfast. I have visited here in both summer and winter, looked at several of the accommodations and enjoyed meals here more than once. I have not stayed overnight myself, but it is definitely a place I can recommend because of its unique atmosphere.
Vuoksen Kalastuspuisto in Imatra offers modern cottages with a sauna right beside the Vuoksi river, featuring large windows and beautiful views over the flowing water. In the morning I open the curtains from my bed and see mist drifting above the river, an absolutely stunning sight.
Salpalinjan Hovi in Rutola is located in a former village school, surrounded by nature. The rooms are themed around different school subjects such as biology, history or music, a playful reference to the building’s past. Just a few minutes away on foot you can visit one of the bunkers of the historic Salpalinja defence line.
Imatran Valtionhotelli in Imatra is an impressive castle like hotel dating from 1903, beautifully located beside the powerful Vuoksi river. Because of the historic character of the building, no two rooms are exactly the same.
Renting a car in winter in Finland
Renting a car is, in my experience, the best way to explore this region of Finland. Many beautiful places are located in the middle of nature and having your own car makes it easy to travel from village to village. I pick up my rental car at Helsinki Airport, after which it takes less than three hours to reach the Lake Saimaa region. A very comfortable drive and a pleasant one too, since you can stop whenever you feel like it along the way.
In winter rental cars in Finland are equipped with studded tyres as standard, which provide good grip on snowy or icy roads. The roads are generally very well maintained. Snow is cleared regularly and fine gravel is sometimes spread to improve traction. Salt is not used, which helps keep the winter landscape beautifully white and prevents your car from becoming covered in a layer of salt.
When renting a car it is wise to choose an all inclusive option that includes full insurance coverage. This way you are fully insured and you will not be approached at the rental desk for additional coverage or extra insurance.
Flying to Helsinki
Flying to Helsinki is surprisingly easy. From many major airports across Europe there are regular direct flights to Helsinki, which means you can often be in Finland within just a few hours. From the airport it then takes around three hours by car to reach the Lake Saimaa region. To find a suitable flight I usually compare prices first using a flight search platform. It is a quick way to see which airline and departure time fit best with my travel plans.
Travelling to South Karelia in Finland by car
Travelling to South Karelia with your own car is also an option. Finland may not be the first destination that comes to mind for a winter road trip, as the distance to Helsinki is considerable. From many parts of Central and Western Europe the journey is well over two thousand kilometres. Fortunately there is a comfortable way to make the journey much easier by combining the drive with a ferry crossing. From the German port of Travemünde, Finnlines operates a direct ferry to Helsinki. Your car can simply travel with you on board. The crossing takes around thirty hours and during the journey you stay in a comfortable cabin, meaning you spend a large part of the trip resting. If you include the drive to Travemünde, you can reach Finland in roughly a day and a half. Perhaps not the most practical option for a short winter trip, but certainly worth considering if you plan to spend several weeks exploring southern Finland.
