Iceland is a paradise for photographers. Volcanoes, glaciers, black beaches, hot pools, lava fields and puffins. We see the stunning images appear time and again. Yet two places stand out above the rest: Kirkjufell and Vestrahorn, the most photographed mountains in Iceland. Kirkjufell is located on the Snaefellsnes peninsula in the west, while Vestrahorn lies on the Stokksnes peninsula in the southeast. On my last trip to Iceland, Stokksnes made a lasting impression on me. Not only because of the majestic Vestrahorn mountain, but also thanks to the enchanting landscapes of Stokksnes.
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Hornafjörður, “fjord of horns”
The Stokksnes peninsula lies on the eastern side of the Hornafjörður fjord, within the municipality of the same name. On the western shore of the fjord sits the town of Höfn. Hornafjörður is one of Iceland’s largest municipalities, covering an area of more than 260 square kilometers. Its name comes from the sandbars just off the coast, which resemble the shape of a horn. In addition, several mountains in the municipality have horn-shaped peaks, including Vestrahorn, Brunnhorn and Eystrahorn. To the north, the municipality borders the southern edge of Vatnajökull National Park.
Vestrahorn (Klifatindur)
The most striking mountain formation in this area is without a doubt Vestrahorn. You can already see this impressive mountain range clearly from Höfn, but the closer you get, the more majestic it appears. The jagged peaks of Vestrahorn rise to over 450 meters and because of their tilted position, the mountain offers a different perspective from every angle. It is a place you simply cannot stop photographing.
From ring road 1, just before the Almannaskarðsgöng tunnel, we take the turnoff to Stokksnes. The views along this road are so breathtaking that you want to stop every few meters. And if it is not the scenery that makes you pull over, it is the reindeer roaming the area. We spend the night at Viking Café, the perfect base for exploring Stokksnes. From here you can walk to Stokksnes beach and the Viking Village, with Vestrahorn always in the background. Tip: get up early, because sunrise on the Stokksnes peninsula is absolutely spectacular.
Stokksnes beach
If you stay at Viking Café, you’ll receive access to the rest of the Stokksnes peninsula. You can drive through the gate and continue all the way towards the lighthouse, where you can park before walking onto the beach. If you have more time, I definitely recommend exploring it on foot. It takes longer, but wandering around here is an experience in itself. We visited in May, very early in the morning just after sunrise (see: daylight hours in Iceland). The light was absolutely magical and while we were photographing Vestrahorn, a herd of horses passed by.
Stokksnes has been used several times as a filming location. Scenes for Game of Thrones were shot here, as well as parts of the movie Stardust. The crew of the Bollywood film Dilwale also traveled to this stunning peninsula in southeast Iceland to film. Evidence that a full movie was once planned here can still be seen in Viking Village, a film set that was ultimately never used.
Stokksnes Viking Village
On the Stokksnes peninsula you’ll also find Viking Village, a film set built in 2010. The movie was supposed to be produced by Universal Studios, but financial problems put the project on hold. Reportedly, the plans to make the film Vikingr are still on the table, under the direction of Icelandic producer Baltasar Kormákur. When filming will actually begin remains uncertain. One thing is clear though: Viking Village has fallen into serious disrepair and would need major restoration before it could be used again.
Brunnhorn, also known as Batman Mountain
As you may have read above, Vestrahorn is not the only mountain in this part of Iceland with distinctive horn-like peaks. If you continue along ring road 1 towards the east, you will reach the other side of Lón, a shallow lagoon much loved by migratory birds. On the map, you can see Brunnhorn just to the west of Lón. Because of its unique peaks, this mountain is also known as Batman Mountain. In spring, you can often spot many wild swans here (white swans with a yellow and black beak).
Eystrahorn (Krossanesfjall)
Driving along the right side of Lón (as seen on the map), you’ll come across another jagged mountain massif: Eystrahorn, also known as Krossanesfjall. It is not the easiest mountain to recognize, even if you have seen countless photos of it online. Most pictures are taken from the air, showing how the ring road seems to curve around the massif. The black sand beach almost closes Lón off from the open sea and stretches nearly all the way to Vestrahorn. It is a stunning spot worth lingering a little longer. I unfortunately experienced exactly what I often warn about. I didn’t realize I was driving right past Eystrahorn and thought I would take photos on the way back. But by the time we returned, the weather had turned and the mountain was hidden from view. In Iceland you should always seize the moment when the weather is good, as you never know what it will be like the next day.
Coastline between Eystrahorn and Álftafjörður
Once you drive past the bend at Eystrahorn, a magnificent stretch of road unfolds for kilometers. For me, this part of Iceland made an incredible impression and I still remember it as one of the most beautiful drives I have ever taken. It is the stretch between Eystrahorn and Álftafjörður, where the road runs along the black beaches of Laekjavik and Fauskasandur. Be sure to stop here to admire these dramatic beaches on Iceland’s east coast and to photograph the impressive monolith Stapi at Stapavík.
Almannaskarð pass or Almannaskarðsgöng tunnel
Before reaching the places mentioned above (Brunnhorn, Lón, Eystrahorn, Lækjavik and Fauskasandur) you first have to cross Almannaskarð. Until 2005, ring road 1 led over the Almannaskarð mountain range via a narrow and very steep mountain pass. During the winter months, the pass was often closed due to heavy snowfall, making eastern Iceland difficult to access. In 2005, the 1,312-meter-long Almannaskarðsgöng tunnel was opened, allowing the ring road to remain open here even in winter. In summer, however, it is still possible to take the mountain pass from the eastern side and enjoy sweeping views from above.
Höfn
Would you like to swap Iceland’s dramatic landscapes for a taste of local life? Then make a stop in Höfn. This town is known for its cultural heritage, lively harbor and stunning panoramic views. Several museums can be found here and if you plan to stay longer there are plenty of accommodation options. Höfn is also home to the visitor center of Vatnajökull National Park, located in Gamlabúð, the oldest building in town.
Ósland
On the southern side of Höfn lies Ósland. Today it is connected to the town, but it was once an island. Ósland is a beautiful nature area with sweeping panoramas of the fjord, glaciers and surrounding mountain peaks. Bird lovers will also enjoy this spot, as many different species nest here in spring. The largest part of the breeding grounds has long been occupied by the Arctic tern.
Hoffell hot pools
After a day out in nature, soaking in geothermal water is the ultimate treat. You can do this near the Stokksnes peninsula at the Hoffell hot pools. The pools belong to Hoffell Guesthouse: if you stay overnight, you can use them for free. If not, you can pay an entrance fee. When the owner is not present in the small office, you can leave cash in the black container next to it. If the owner is there, card payments are also accepted. The cost is 2,000 ISK. There are five hot tubs with varying temperatures, all very hot and use is at your own risk. Facilities include changing rooms, toilets and both indoor and outdoor showers. It is a wonderful place to relax and take in the Icelandic surroundings.
Staying at Viking Café on Stokksnes peninsula
When booking Viking Café, we thought our accommodation would have a view of Vestrahorn. Unfortunately, that was not the case, but the stay was still very enjoyable. We had a spacious room with a large bathroom, it was clean and everything looked well maintained. Breakfast was good and served in the cozy café. An overnight stay includes a pass for the barrier gate, allowing you to drive to the far end of the peninsula, as well as entry to Viking Village. If you do not stay at Viking Café, you can still pay separately for access to Stokksnes beach and Viking Village.
Discovering Iceland with a rental car
In my opinion, there is really only one way to properly explore Iceland and that is with a rental car. It gives you so much freedom. If you want to stay somewhere longer, you can. If you want to return to a place because the weather was poor earlier, that is no problem either. Choosing a rental with an all-inclusive insurance package makes the experience even more carefree, since you are covered for all damages and do not have to worry about unexpected costs. With a rental car and full coverage you can set out on the road with peace of mind and that is exactly what you want when traveling, isn’t it?
Tips for the south and east of Iceland
On the way to Vestrahorn, don’t miss the stunning Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon and the spectacular glacier lagoon Jökulsárlón. Heading further east? Take the impressive Öxi mountain pass towards Egilsstaðir (only in good weather). Afterwards you can unwind in the thermal waters of Vök Baths or one of the other hot pools in eastern Iceland. And of course, do not forget to go puffin spotting if you are visiting between April and September.
If you are staying longer in Iceland, consider driving the full ring road 1. With enough time, include the remote Westfjords in your itinerary. When the weather is good, skip the new tunnel and take the Hrafnseyrarheiði heath pass (road 626). This mountain route is highly recommended and rewards you with breathtaking views. Stop at Dynjandi, an enormous waterfall and be sure to visit a few hot pools in the Westfjords. On your way back to Reykjavík, do not miss the Snaefellsnes peninsula, often referred to as “Iceland in miniature” because you can see almost everything here that the country has to offer elsewhere. So much to see in Iceland, so much to do. Looking for more inspiration? Check out our Iceland category for additional articles.
