When people think of the French Ardennes, images of vast forests, meandering rivers and charming towns full of history often come to mind. This region in France is sometimes mentioned in the same breath as the Champagne area, but that lies further south. The atmosphere is also completely different. While Champagne is known for endless vineyards and picturesque villages, the French Ardennes are defined by rugged landscapes, medieval castles and historic squares.
Read this article in DutchFrench Ardennes, part of Grand Est
The French Ardennes are located in the northeast of France, just above Reims. Since 2016, they have been part of the Grand Est region, along with Alsace and Lorraine. It is an expansive area with varied landscapes and atmospheric towns. During my visit, I explored Sedan, Charleville-Mézières, Monthermé and Givet. Let me tell you more about these beautiful places in the French Ardennes.
Charleville-Mézières
Charleville-Mézières lies on the Meuse River and is made up of the former towns of Charleville and Mézières. In 1966, these were merged with three surrounding villages, and together they became the city of Charleville-Mézières. Mézières is the older part, with an important role in the Middle Ages. That historic character is still visible today in the architecture, making the contrast with the younger Charleville easy to spot.
The heart of the city is Place Ducale in Charleville, an impressive square surrounded by 17th-century buildings with arcades. In summer, events and markets are often held here, creating a lively atmosphere. The terraces under and in front of the arcades are always busy, making the square the vibrant hub of the city.
On Place Ducale, you’ll also find the town hall and the local tourist office. During weekends and festivals, the square is closed to traffic, allowing you to stroll around peacefully and enjoy its historic charm even more.
Marionette festival in Charleville
Charleville-Mézières is famous for its marionette theatre and its unique marionette clock. Every hour the shutters open and a miniature performance appears, always attracting a crowd of curious onlookers. Every two years, in odd-numbered years, the International Marionette Festival takes place. Puppeteers from all over the world come to Charleville to showcase their art. With around 150,000 visitors, it is one of the largest events in the region and accommodation is often fully booked well in advance. Local residents even open their homes to welcome guests.
Charleville is also closely connected to Arthur Rimbaud, the famous French poet who was born here. On the banks of the Meuse you’ll find Le Vieux Moulin, which houses the Rimbaud Museum dedicated entirely to his life and work.
Monthermé and the Meuse Valley
About half an hour’s drive from Charleville-Mézières lies Monthermé, in the picturesque Meuse Valley. Here you’ll find stunning viewpoints over the river and plenty of opportunities for hiking. Cyclists are also a common sight, many of them riding part of the Maas Cycle Route. Some bring their bikes by car to ride a single stage, while others follow the route all the way from the Netherlands to Bourbonne-les-Bains, where the Meuse originates, or in the opposite direction. The cycle paths are flat, well signposted and mostly run right along the river. It’s no surprise that the Maas Cycle Route has been awarded several times.
The fortress of Sedan
Another city well worth a visit is Sedan. Also located on the Meuse, Sedan is famous for the Château Fort de Sedan, one of the largest fortresses in Europe with a surface area of 35,000 m². Construction began in the early 15th century under the La Marck family, and over the centuries the castle grew into an impressive stronghold that was never completely destroyed. The walls are more than seven meters thick in places, and several towers and defensive structures can still be seen. Inside you’ll find a museum that tells the story of the fortress and the city, with a focus on the Middle Ages and the Battle of Sedan (1870). You can even spend the night here, as part of the complex has been converted into a hotel. The vast inner courtyard alone is impressive, but staying within the castle walls makes it an unforgettable experience.
Eating and drinking in Sedan
A good Italian restaurant in Sedan is Pizzeria Les Halles. It’s affordable, with incredibly friendly service, delicious pizzas, and a warm atmosphere. For a drink, head to Le Roy de la Bière on Place de la Halle. This dark bar-pub has French doors that open onto a small, cozy terrace. If the terrace is full, you can still sit inside and enjoy the sunshine while soaking up the lively atmosphere.
Château de Hierges
Hierges is a small village in the Charleville-Mézières arrondissement with only a few hundred inhabitants. The history of Hierges goes back to the 9th century. The current castle was built in the 16th century on the remains of an older fortress and was classified as a monument historique in 1980. Over the centuries, the castle changed owners several times. In 1988 it was acquired by Didier de Witte de Haelen and after his death his nephew Serge de Witte de Haelen inherited the château.
A visit to the castle is possible, but only by appointment. It is not continuously open to the public, as the baron himself resides there. Together with the villagers of Hierges, he is breathing new life into the castle. An old stable complex has already been fully restored, and one of the towers has been repaired and converted into an exhibition space. Plans are underway to restore the other three towers, which are currently in poor condition.
Hierges
The village of Hierges itself is wonderfully picturesque and perfect for a leisurely stroll. Its charming streets, old houses and cozy village square give it an idyllic character. Since 2025, the village, dominated by the Château de Hierges, has held the prestigious label Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. For a tasty stop, La Causerie des Lilas is highly recommended: simple yet delicious dishes served on a small terrace with long picnic tables where guests sit together. Meat, fish and even cheese fondue are cooked outdoors over an open fire, creating a beautiful and authentic scene.
Givet
Givet is a charming town close to the Belgian border, with just over 6,700 inhabitants. It lies directly on the Meuse River and has a rich history. Thanks to its strategic location, Givet played an important role in the 16th and 17th centuries, during the ongoing rivalry between the French kingdom and Spain.
The most striking landmark is the impressive Fort Charlemont, part of the Citadel of Givet. Built in 1555 by order of Emperor Charles V, the fort stands high on a steep hill overlooking the Meuse. The complex includes kilometers of trenches, dozens of buildings, and long passageways. From the fortress, you’ll also enjoy sweeping views over Givet and the surrounding Meuse Valley.
Givet is also a lovely place to wander around. You’ll find historic houses, narrow streets, and hidden alleys. Along the river, there are several restaurants with terraces overlooking the water, the perfect way to end your day in Givet in a cozy atmosphere.
Hiking in and around Givet
At the local tourist office (Val D’Ardenne Tourist Office, right by the Meuse), you can pick up hiking routes. Visiting Givet with children? They’ve thought of that too! A fun option is the Nuton à Givet treasure hunt, where kids help a Nuton (a legendary gnome) find his way back to his cave. Armed with a booklet or the specially designed smartphone app, children search for clues around the town.
Another great walk leads through Pointe de Givet, the nature reserve near the town. Here too, children can use a booklet full of facts, questions, and tasks to learn more about Nutons, nature and Givet. This walk takes about 1.5 to 2 hours and covers 4 kilometers. The reserve also offers other routes that are not specifically aimed at children.
Boating on the Meuse
In Givet you can rent electric boats at Captain d’Douce, available in different sizes for up to seven people. We were surprised by how calm the river was; we didn’t see a single other boat. Not while cruising ourselves and not even later while sitting on a terrace by the water. If you go boating, plan for at least an hour on the river, as half an hour feels too short.
Where to stay in the French Ardennes
Curious to explore the places mentioned above? Turn your visit into a longer stay. We spent four nights in this region, staying in charming and unique accommodations. The French Ardennes offer plenty of options, from cozy chambres d’hôtes and village hotels to historic castles.
Sleeping in Château Fort de Sedan
A stay at Château Fort de Sedan feels like stepping back in time. The hotel rooms have preserved their medieval character. In ours, we had an old fireplace and authentic tiled floors. At the same time, the rooms are equipped with modern comforts, so you can enjoy convenience while surrounded by centuries-old walls. The experience of truly staying inside a medieval fortress makes it an unforgettable place to spend the night.
Le Clos Belle Rose
In the picturesque village of Haybes, you’ll find Le Clos Belle Rose, a charming 19th-century mansion transformed into an inviting chambres d’hôtes. The spacious rooms are elegantly decorated with a mix of classic and modern elements, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Outside, a beautiful garden stretches along the Meuse, with old trees and cozy seating areas.
Sleeping in a treehouse at Le Chêne Perché
Le Chêne Perché offers four treehouses at different heights. Children aged 14 and up can stay in the highest one, perched an impressive 16 meters above the ground. The huts are reached by rope bridges, and luggage (as well as breakfast) is hoisted up by pulley. It’s an adventure in itself, especially for kids!
The treehouses have no electricity or running water, but there is a dry toilet and plenty of candlelight from tealights. At Le Chêne Perché you’ll also find an adventure park with extensive climbing courses, designed for both children and adults with increasing levels of difficulty.
