In Alsace, colourful and charming towns and villages are everywhere. Earlier, I wrote about Kaysersberg, a beautiful medieval place filled with centuries old half timbered houses. Colmar takes this a step further. The town is larger, more colourful and has an even richer history. It is more than time for a visit to Colmar. During our road trip through the Vosges, we unfortunately did not have much time. And after a lovely morning in Colmar, the rain started pouring down. We decided on a short city walk through Colmar, through the Vieille Ville to be precise, the old town. One that you can easily follow and adapt to your own pace and interests.
Read this article in DutchIn short: the history of Colmar
The history of Colmar goes back to Roman times, when Julius Caesar defeated a Germanic tribe here in 58 BC. The town became especially important in the Middle Ages and during the Renaissance. In the thirteenth century, Colmar became a free imperial city of the Holy Roman Empire. In the fourteenth century, the town joined the Décapole, the League of Ten Cities, which also included Kaysersberg mentioned above. During the French Revolution at the end of the eighteenth century, Colmar was annexed by France. In the nineteenth century, trade flourished in Colmar, mainly because of textile production. After 1871, Colmar, together with Alsace Lorraine, became part of Germany again. After the First World War, Colmar became French once more. During the Second World War, the town was occupied by Germany. In 1945, Colmar was liberated by the Allies as the last French town.
Colmar, German or French?
As you can see, Colmar has been passed back and forth between France and Germany more than once. It is only natural that you can still see cultural influences from both countries. Colmar is not only a major attraction in this part of France because of its colourful half timbered houses. The local gastronomy also makes the town appealing to visitors, together with its wine production and its setting in the picturesque foothills of the Vosges.
A short city walk through Colmar (2 kilometres)
Before we arrived, we did not really have a fixed list of places we wanted to see in Colmar. We decided to see how things would unfold once we were there. There was one place I knew I wanted to visit for sure, the area known as La Petite Venise. We looked for a parking spot nearby and ended up at Parking de la Montagne Verte.
La Petite Venise
From the car park, we walked along the river La Lauch towards Pont Rue des Tanneurs, where it immediately becomes clear why this area is called La Petite Venise. Small boats with visitors glide through the canal, there are lovely bridges, inviting cafés by the water and I even spotted a fence covered in red padlocks. This has to be one of the most picturesque and romantic parts of Colmar.
This neighbourhood has a rich history. It used to lie on an important trade and transport route for goods that were shipped in by boat. Merchandise could be unloaded here, and the covered market hall, the Marché Couvert Colmar, sits right by the river. This is still the place in Colmar to buy fresh produce. Almost anything you can think of in terms of fresh food can be found inside the market hall.
Quai de la Poissonnerie
We continue along the water on the Quai de la Poissonnerie, though not at a fast pace. So many colours, so many beautiful façades, so many things to photograph. This two kilometre city walk through Colmar is going to take a while at this rate. Be prepared for many more photos of Colmar in this article.
The Quai de la Poissonnerie used to be the fishermen’s quarter. Fishermen brought their freshly caught fish here to sell. Unfortunately, many of the buildings are no longer in their original state. A fire in 1706 destroyed no fewer than forty houses in this area. At the end of the twentieth century, many of these houses were restored or even rebuilt entirely, all in their original style.
The Quai de la Poissonnerie continues into Rue de la Poissonnerie, a narrow street that you could almost call an alley. We pass several inviting terraces here. It is a shame it is not lunchtime yet, because everything looks so appealing and welcoming.
Point de vue sur La Petite Venise
For a moment, I think we have already seen all of La Petite Venise, but I am wrong. From the bridge over the river La Lauch, it is beautiful on both sides all over again. Whether you are taking close ups or wider views, zooming in on an old façade or a terrace, every spot and every scene seems to promise a photograph with atmosphere. If you enjoy photography, walking around Colmar with your camera feels a bit like being a child in a sweet shop, taking whatever you can get your hands on.
Fontaine Roesselmann, Place des Six Montagnes Noires
We cross the bridge and arrive at Place des Six Montagnes Noires. This square was once home to an inn called Zum Schwarzenberg, which was already mentioned at the beginning of the fourteenth century. In 1880, the building was lost in a major fire. In 1888, the municipality of Colmar decided to place a fountain on the site of the former inn. The Fontaine Roesselmann was dedicated to Jean Roesselmann, who died in the middle of the thirteenth century while fighting for the independence of Colmar.
Place des Six Montagnes Noires is also one of the six locations in Colmar where a Christmas market is held at the end of the year. Christmas in Colmar is said to be truly fairytale like and full of atmosphere. On many lists, Colmar appears in the top three of the most beautiful Christmas markets in the region.
Grand Rue
We walk into the Grand Rue, a street of a little over five hundred metres lined with centuries old buildings. Among the oldest are the Maison zum Roten Isen from 1392 and the Koïfhus from 1480. This street is also home to the Tribunal de Grande Instance de Colmar, the high court. Over the years, this building has served several different purposes and was once even the town hall of Colmar.
Maison zum Roten Isen
I mentioned it briefly above, the Maison zum Roten Isen, a building dating from 1392. It stands in the middle of a small square, so you can walk all the way around it. Whenever you read about remarkable buildings in Colmar, the Maison zum Roten Isen is almost always near the top of the list. Over the centuries, the building has been used for many different purposes. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it was used for salt storage, and around 1900 an inn was opened here. In the twentieth century, it served as a café for a while, and since 1970 the building has been home to the restaurant Le Fer Rouge. It is well worth taking an extra loop around this beautiful half timbered house.
Maison Pfister
From the Grand Rue, we turn into Rue des Marchands. Another colourful scene appears, with Maison Pfister in view and the tower of St Martin’s Church rising behind it. Built in 1537, Maison Pfister is one of the houses in Colmar with a clear Renaissance style. On the outside, you can see many painted decorations, including German emperors and biblical figures. The name comes from the merchant François Xavier Pfister, who bought the building in the middle of the nineteenth century.
Next to Maison Pfister is a very small café, Café des Marchands. During our walk through Colmar, we take shelter here for a while from a heavy thunderstorm that lasts much longer than we expected. The café has a very wide selection of wine and beer, though there are only a few seats inside. If you can, and the weather is dry, it is much nicer to sit outside on the small terrace by the door.
Musée Bartholdi
A little further along on the left side of Rue des Marchands, you will find the Musée Bartholdi. The artist Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi was born in this building. Besides artworks, you can also see personal belongings here. Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi designed, among other things, the Statue of Liberty in New York and the Lion of Belfort on Place Denfert Rochereau in Paris.
St Martin’s Church
After the rain, we turn into the small street just before Maison Pfister and arrive at St Martin’s Church. This impressive Gothic church was built in the thirteenth century and has undergone several renovations and extensions over the centuries. The church tower, which rises to about seventy metres, is an important landmark in the town. Inside St Martin’s Church, you will find a rich collection of artworks and religious objects. Think of beautiful fourteenth century stained glass windows and a fine Baroque altarpiece from the eighteenth century. The church also houses several sculptures and paintings, including a painting of Saint Martin sharing his cloak with a beggar. Because of its special acoustics, concerts and cultural events are regularly held here. St Martin’s Church is considered one of the most important pieces of cultural heritage in Colmar.
Lunch at Schwendi Bier und Wistub
We walk back around the church towards the Grand Rue, where we once again have to take shelter from a heavy rain shower. We end up at Schwendi Bier und Wistub, a cosy stube with a menu that includes both German and typical Alsatian dishes. A small tip, the rösti here is excellent.
Place de l’Ancienne Douane
We wander around the centre for a bit longer and take a look at the seventeenth century Presbytère Protestant. After that, we walk towards Place de l’Ancienne Douane, where we linger for a while by the beautiful Fontaine Schwendi. On top of the fountain stands Lazarus Schwendi, created by the artist Bartholdi. The fountain was destroyed during the Second World War, but was later restored to its former glory in the same style.
Quartier des Tanneurs
We head back to the car park via the Quartier des Tanneurs. This is a completely different part of Colmar. Old, truly old. One wonderful street here is the Pt Rue des Tanneurs. A narrow street, tall buildings and beautiful colours. In the Middle Ages, this district was an important industrial area, where many goods were produced, such as leather, textiles and wooden objects.
Where to stay in Colmar
Colmar has many lovely and distinctive places to stay. It is, however, a very popular destination, and accommodation is often booked well in advance. So it is worth not waiting too long if you want to stay in the centre of Colmar.
A beautiful hotel in a great setting along the river La Lauch is Hotel Restaurant Le Maréchal Les Collectionneurs. The building dates from the middle of the sixteenth century and has a historic and very elegant interior. If you prefer a more modern feel, James Boutique Hôtel Colmar Centre is a good choice. For a real design focused stay, there is Hôtel Quatorze, where you also get free access to the sauna and the hammam. If you feel like treating yourself, the lovely five star La Maison des Têtes Relais and Châteaux is another excellent option. Plenty of good reasons to find the right place to stay in Colmar.
Other sights in Colmar
If you are spending more time in Colmar, there are plenty of other sights to explore. Museum lovers can head to the Musée Unterlinden, which is housed in a thirteenth century Dominican convent. The museum has a collection of paintings and sculptures from the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. Colmar also has a toy museum, the Musée du Jouet, where you can see all kinds of toys that children have played with since the nineteenth century. Colmar even has its own Manneken Pis, once donated by Brussels. The small statue was made in the nineteen twenties and can be found on Rue des Augustins.
Do not forget to explore part of the Vosges while you are in Colmar, you are already so close. Kaysersberg is also well worth a short trip and lies about a short drive away from Colmar. If you would like to discover much more of this region, you might enjoy reading about this road trip through the Vosges and the overview of the most beautiful villages in France by region.
