The late afternoon and evening of a summer day are my favourite moments. As the sun begins to sink, the light softens and turns warm and gentle, perfect hours to head out with my camera. This part of the day is just as inviting for sitting down at an outdoor café. Ideally a little earlier in the afternoon, so I can enjoy a drink before heading out to photograph the hours leading up to sunset. I sit down, go out with my camera and often return after the sun has set. There are many places where this rhythm comes naturally and on Sicily, Marzamemi is one of them. The quay, the small boats, the colourful tables and chairs on the square all come together effortlessly. Marzamemi is an authentic fishing village that fits beautifully into a road trip along the east coast of Sicily.
Read this article in DutchHistory of Marzamemi
Marzamemi owes its origins largely to its location right by the sea. The name is thought to derive from Marsà al-hamām, an Arabic term meaning bay of the doves. As early as the tenth century, fishing was already an important activity along this part of Sicily’s east coast. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Marzamemi continued to develop around the Tonnara di Marzamemi, where tuna was caught and processed.
In 1752, the noble Villadorata family commissioned the construction of Palazzo Villadorata and the village church. Around the same time, simple houses were built around Piazza Regina Margherita, the social heart of the village, to accommodate fishermen working at the tonnara. These low houses, with their light-coloured walls and terracotta roofs, still reflect the traditional architecture of the region. They remain an essential part of Marzamemi’s identity and together with the square, they continue to form the living centre of the village today.
Restaurants on and around Piazza Regina Margherita
You experience the true Marzamemi atmosphere most vividly when you settle down at one of the outdoor cafés around Piazza Regina Margherita. The colourful chairs and small tables stay occupied well into the evening and not only by travellers. Locals come here just as happily to linger and catch up. Several restaurants line the square, making it an easy place to end the day in a very Sicilian way, with fresh fish dishes, pasta with local tuna or swordfish and seafood antipasti.
I personally enjoyed a wonderful meal at La Balata Food & Drink. Reviews here are not especially glowing, but we were instantly drawn to the tables overlooking the sea. The pasta dishes we ordered were genuinely excellent and lingered in memory long after. Other restaurants around the square that are often praised for their food and setting include Ristorante Suruq, Zibibbo Terrazza Gourmet and Camparia Marzamemi.
What else is there to see in Marzamemi?
Although Piazza Regina Margherita is the main attraction and the beating heart of Marzamemi, the village is larger than it first appears and there is more to explore beyond the square. The Tonnara di Marzamemi dates back to the Arab period and took on its present form in the eighteenth century. Today the former tuna fishery has found a new role as an atmospheric setting for cultural events and concerts.
Beyond this, narrow streets invite you to wander past fishermen’s houses with blue doors and shutters, browse small boutiques and stroll along the quay where colourful boats gently bob on the water. Marzamemi can feel lively at times, especially later in the day, but quiet corners are never far away. A short walk leads you to the rocky coastline where the village suddenly falls silent and it feels as if you have the shore almost to yourself.
Marzamemi as part of your route along the east coast
Marzamemi fits naturally into a road trip along Sicily’s east coast, a route that takes you past ancient cities, varied landscapes and dramatic stretches of coastline. You might spend an afternoon in Noto admiring its baroque architecture, wander through Ortigia, the historic heart of Siracusa, hike on the slopes of Mount Etna or wade through the cool water of the Alcantara Gorge. Ending the day with a refreshing drink in Marzamemi feels like a natural and well earned finale.
Staying in and around Marzamemi
If you would like to linger a little longer and soak up the relaxed atmosphere, there are plenty of places to stay in and around Marzamemi. Cosy bed and breakfasts in the village centre allow you to walk straight to Piazza Regina Margherita in the morning for an espresso and a brioche. Just beyond the village, the countryside opens up to charming agriturismo stays set among olive groves and vineyards, offering a quieter base while still keeping the coast within easy reach. Well-reviewed accommodations include, among others: Il Crepuscolo Marzamemi, Thalìa Guest House Marzamemi and MaNanna B&B.
