During a road trip along the east coast of Sicily I find myself moving from one moment of amazement to the next. The imposing Mount Etna, the clear blue waters of the Alcantara Gorge, elegant Taormina with its famous Greek Theatre, the small fishing village of Marzamemi and above all the historic island of Ortigia all leave a lasting impression. And still, there is more to come. Noto, set in the south east of Sicily, is next on the list, a town defined by its orderly street plan and striking baroque architecture.
Read this article in DutchThe new Noto after the devastating earthquake of 1693
That structured layout is no coincidence. Originally, Noto was located several kilometres away on a rocky plateau. The powerful earthquake of 1693 almost completely destroyed the old town. Instead of rebuilding everything on the same site, a bold decision was made to start over entirely in a new location, slightly further down in the valley. The remains of the original town, now known as Noto Antica, still lie scattered across the hills and can be visited today.
For the new Noto, architects designed a forward thinking urban plan with wide, straight streets and a clear sense of hierarchy, placing the most important buildings along the main street. The result is a town that feels open and easy to navigate, where almost every corner reveals a carefully framed view. Reconstruction began towards the end of the seventeenth century and continued well into the eighteenth century.
Val di Noto: UNESCO World Heritage
In 2002, Noto was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List together with several other towns in this part of Sicily, under the name Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto. Alongside Noto, this group includes Ragusa, Modica, Scicli, Caltagirone, Palazzolo Acreide, Militello in Val di Catania and parts of Catania. All of these places were largely rebuilt after the major earthquake of 1693, following the same rich late baroque style.
Why Noto is so special
What makes Noto stand out even within this group is the way the town was designed as a whole. Many of the other towns in the Val di Noto, such as Ragusa and Modica, were rebuilt on their original sites after the earthquake. This meant working around existing streets, changes in elevation and natural slopes, resulting in layered townscapes with winding streets and narrow alleyways.
Noto, by contrast, was created from scratch in a new location. Streets, squares and buildings align seamlessly, giving the centre a strong sense of unity rather than feeling like a collection of separate landmarks. It is this clarity and cohesion that make Noto such a remarkable example of planned baroque urban design.
A visit to baroque Noto
I had read a little about Noto before arriving. With an architect as my partner, it is impossible not to be curious about a place like this. We park near Campo Sportivo and walk along Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour towards the centre. As soon as we turn into a side street leading to the wide main road, everything suddenly feels grand.
The buildings seem to glow thanks to the soft, honey coloured stone, as if the sunlight is reflected from every surface. The streets run straight and intersect in a clear grid. In several places, steep staircases connect different levels of the town, some decorated with colourful paintings. At every corner there is another carefully framed view of a façade, a church or a row of balconies. It feels as though the town was designed so that you are always surrounded by beauty and always walking in the light.
Baroque highlights and cinematic street scenes
We wander along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, occasionally seeking out spots that were used in the second season of the series The White Lotus. It is fun to recognise filming locations from such a well known HBO series, yet this street hardly needs that extra layer to make an impression.
Cattedrale di San Nicolò
I take my time exploring the Duomo, officially known as the Cattedrale di San Nicolò, which rises high above the street. Inside, the light filters beautifully through the windows in the domes, adding depth to the painted ceilings and decorative details. After your visit, the wide steps in front of the cathedral are the perfect place to sit for a moment and let everything sink in.
Palazzo Ducezio
Directly opposite the Duomo stands the elegant Palazzo Ducezio, Noto’s town hall. Its long, gently curved façade with columns and arches forms a perfect counterbalance to the cathedral across the square. From here, you have a clear, uninterrupted view of the steps and façade of the Duomo, making it easy to see how deliberately this space was designed as a unified whole.
Inside, you will find richly decorated rooms, including a mirror hall adorned with ceiling paintings and gold accents. It offers a glimpse into the importance and grandeur this building has always held within the city.
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi all’Immacolata
Just a few steps further along stands the beautiful Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi all’Immacolata. The wide staircase leading up to the church almost feels like walking towards a stage. There is something quietly theatrical about it. Scenes from The White Lotus were filmed here as well. Once you have visited, you will recognise this spot instantly when watching the series.
Porta Reale
After a drink on a terrace opposite the cathedral, we walk towards Porta Reale, the monumental city gate at the beginning of Corso Vittorio Emanuele. This arch was built in the nineteenth century to commemorate a visit by King Ferdinand II and marks the official entrance to the baroque centre. The gate was never part of a complete city wall, as you might expect in medieval towns. It did, however, form a clear boundary between the older, lower part of Noto and the newly planned town above.
Where to stay in Noto
If you want to fully experience the atmosphere of Noto, it is well worth staying in or near the historic centre. A few well reviewed options include Marla’s Boutique Rooms, Sveva Rooms, Incanto Siciliano and Ziolì. Staying here allows you to wander the streets early in the morning or later in the evening, when the light is softer and the town feels even more serene.
Exploring Sicily by rental car
An island like Sicily is best explored by car. Having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to move at your own pace and reach places that are harder to access by public transport.
When booking a rental car, it is worth choosing an option that includes clear coverage from the start. While this can sometimes be slightly more expensive than the lowest budget deals, it often makes the experience much smoother. Knowing that everything is arranged in advance means fewer surprises on arrival and no pressure at the counter to add extra insurance. It sets a relaxed tone right from the beginning of your trip.
